[tcb] Re: air in the mc
- From: "chuck blue" <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:47:59 -0500
New is better but us broke guys sometimes have to go second best.Most of the
brake drum warpage I think is caused by the wheels being improperly
torqued.With the wide lug pattern I think the wheel is stronger that the drum
and causes the warp.I have been able to sometimes correct the pulsation by
properly torqueing the wheels.
I'm no Guru. I've just had lots of exposure.
----- Original Message -----
From: sammie smith
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:34 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
For be it for me to disagree with VW guru Chuck: But, I have never had much
luck in having VW drums turned. Maybe it's different on the heavy duty Thing
or bus drums, but the Type I drums are awfully thin to start with and when you
take metal off they are obviously even thinner. Every time I have had Type I
drums turned I have then later had problems with them warping. If you have
them turned, take just enough off to smooth them up, no more. Personally, if
they are bad enough that they really need a good turning, then I would replace
the drums. And before you have them turned, make sure the guy doing the
turning knows the factory specs for maximum he can take off and to not exceed
it.
Denis Dodson <coocoo@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I had the same problem. New shoes, new wheel cylinders, bled properly, and
yet I would need to pump the brakes. The inspection of the drums showed very
little wear and no grooves or ridges. Chuck kept telling me that I needed to
have the drums turned because they were probably ovalled. I did not feel a
whole lot of pulsing, but to shut him up I had the drums turned. The difference
was, and is, amazing Less than two inches of play and no fading. My brakes have
never been this good in Murrays long history.
If you haven't had the drums turned, do it. You've got nothing to lose.
----- Original Message -----
From: sammie smith
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
If you have the brakes completely bled there can be no air in the master
cylinder. If the master cylinder holds when you first press on it but then
slowly goes down with the pedal but then will pump back up when you hit the
pedal again you may have a master cylinder that is leaking fluid by the piston.
Solution is a new master cylinder. If you have low pedal on first application
but can then pump the brakes up; in my opinion you have air in the system and
you haven't completely bled the system. Make sure you have plenty of fluid in
the reservoir. Also: not sure how it works on a bay, but the earlier busses
and bugs have an adjustment in the plunger to the master cylinder from the
pedal. If this is not properly adjusted it will give you the impression of low
pedal that you can pump up. I'm open to suggestions from other master VW
mechanics.
Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
the brakes have been bled 4 times now, i still have to pump it up for
them to work, that is why i think there is air in the master cylinder, i don't
think it's bad because there are no leaks. i understand i need to bleed the
wheels and have gotten very experienced in that the past couple of days, there
isn't any air comming out of the wheels now. i was just wondering about the
master cylinder, how do i get the air out of it? is there any trick to it?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:59:45 -0700
From: bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Bleed the brakes: In this order; right rear, left rear, right front,
left front. Use the method recommended in all the VW handbooks and you can do
the job by yourself, though it is helpful to have someone work the pedal while
you watch the fluid to make sure all bubbles have stopped coming out. If you
don't have a manual showing this procedure holler back and I will describe it.
Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
that is the concensus on the master cylinder. any tricks to
bleeding it with it installed? just unhook the hose and pump away or what?
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