[rollei_list] Re: Rolleiflex MX (Xenar)
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 09:11:41 -0800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan Decher" <Jan.Decher@xxxxxxx>
To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 6:28 AM
Subject: [rollei_list] Rolleiflex MX (Xenar)
Bought a Rolleiflex MX No. 1256064 (3.5/75mm Xenar No.
3110891) with instr. book, Rollei ER case and a dead
Weston Master II locally yesterday. My first more
"vintage" Rolleiflex. What kind of strap is needed for
the older style attachment on the MX, if you don't use
the leather case?
I was surprised to learn that I can't use my Rolleifix on
it and that you have to restrain you impulse to wind the
film if you want to use 1/500 second! The WL finder is
incredibly dim compared to my Maxwell-enhanced 3.5E.
Perhaps cleaning the screen might help somewhat at least
around the edges
But this MX seems to functions extremely smoothly. The
camera was overhauled a few years ago. Moving parts seem
to have less tolerances and moving parts inclusding the
shutter seem more "buttery" quiet than in my 3.5E (I have
had the same experience with older Leicas compared to my
IIIf).
I am running a roll of FP4 through it today and will
post results on Flickr this weekend. Will also pick up a
Bay I hood from my local camera store.
Can I replace the screen in the MX myself?
Jan
P.S.: Any hopes for "reviving" the Weston Master II
meter?
---
Rollei List
If the Weston is totally unresponsive its probably due
to dirty contacts on the photocell. Very often this can be
fixed by pushing down on the cell window and twisting back
and forth a little. The main fault of selenium cells is that
they become non-linear. This can be tested using a light
source that will register on both high and low ranges. The
reading should be exactly the same on both ranges. If the
cell is gone it will read low by about a stop on the low
range (i.e. the range where the meter reads up-scale). Bad
cells can not be revived but must be replaced. I don't know
for certain the mechanisim of the failure but selenium cells
are sensitive to both heat and moisture.
The strap for the MX is simply a leather strip with a
hole in the ends. the strip fits under the loop and the hole
hooks onto the spade-shaped hook.
Older Compur shutters have an auxilliary booster spring
for the highest speed. This spring is tensioned by the speed
cam so when you set the shutter for 1/500th you will feel
some resistance as you tension it. That is also why there is
a long space between 1/250th and 1/500th. The spring is
tensioned further when the shutter is cocked. If you try to
move the speed adjustment to 1/500th when the shutter is
cocked there is a chance the end of the spring will be
forced under the speed cam jamming the mechanism. It also
puts a lot of force on the edge of the cam. The speed can be
released from 1/500th to a slower speed when the shutter is
cocked although the also puts more force on the parts than
is normal.
The finder in the MX may seem dim after using something
like a Maxwell screen but its worth cleaning the finder.
This can be done by removing the four screws at the corners
of the hood. The hood then lifts off so that the ground
glass can be removed. With the ground glass out the mirror
and rear of the finder lens is exposed. If the mirror is
dirty clean it by using a Kimwipe or similar lintless tissue
and pure (dry) isopropyl alcohol. Wet the tissue with the
alcohol and lay it on the mirror, then drag it off the
mirror. Then toss it and use a fresh tissue if the mirror
still has some dirt on it. This should clean the mirror
without leaving streaks. You can also try "streak free"
window cleaner. This is made with butyl alcohol and is
recommeded by Hewlett-Packard and others for cleaning
scanner windows. I find it works well on lenses. Also clean
the back of the finder lens. The ground glass is best
cleaned in warm water with a little dishwashing detergent in
it. It is surprizing how much a little accumulated grease on
a ground glass dims it.
The finder is re-assembled by putting the ground glass
back on the support springs and replacing the hood.
Note: The screws used on many cameras, including
Rolleis, have narrower slots than standard screws. Invest in
a cheap set of jewelers screw drivers and file down the tips
so that they fit. That will avoid damaging the screws.
Before investing in an expensive replacement screen
check to see if the finder will accept a Rolleigrid. This is
a simple Fresnel field lens that drops over the ground
glass. I have them in my Rolleis and they brighten up the
screen remarkably without interfering with focus.
Some time around the mid-1950s Rollei made some changes
in the MX. These included a grooved tripod mount designed to
take the Rolleifix and panoramic adaptor. At the time Rollei
offered new backs for existing cameras with the new bottom
on them. At about the same time Rollei began to put internal
baffles in the camera so if you have the earlier type of
bottom you probably also do not have the baffles. AFAIK, the
baffles can not be installed in cameras made without them. I
think the sliding pressure plate to accomodate the Rolleikin
also dates from this time, earlier cameras do not have it
and require the entire back to be changed if a Rolleikin is
to be used.
I also have an MX with Xenar. Its a very good camera and
the lens is quite sharp.
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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