[pure-silver] improvised dry mountpress. was: Under exposed frame
- From: "Gene Johnson" <genej2@xxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2005 17:16:42 -0800
hey Richard. I have a 16x20 piece of 1/2" aluminum plate in the garage. I
was thinking of heating it up in the oven and just setting it on top like a
weight :)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 5:02 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 4:28 PM
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
>
>
> >
> > I spent much of the afternoon using the various methods
> > outlined
> > here for getting this frame from hell to print.
> >
> > Good News! It came out. Rather nice too.
> >
> > I used the split contrast method and then dumped them
> > in selenium
> > 1+20 for 8mins. I used FB Glossy and I rather like the
> > outcome.
> >
> > I do need to find a better way to wash these prints. I
> > also need to
> > get myself some screens to dry.
> >
> > Has anyone ever tried using an clothes iron to dry
> > mount?
> >
> > If it's too hot, I have a Swix waxing iron which isn't
> > anywhere near
> > as hot.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > J
> >
> > --
> > Justin F. Knotzke
> > jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.shampoo.ca
> >
>
> Ready made window screens work fine and are easy to
> clean.
> When I was in high school, and cound't afford a dry
> mounting press, I used an iron. It can be done but the
> temperature is critical. Most clothes irons will not run
> cool enough. The procedure is similar to that used with the
> press.
> Flatten out the prints by placing them between sheets of
> heavy construction or kraft paper. Iron on a flat surface
> and place a flat weight on top until cool. The best weight
> is sheet Aluminum but even wood will do, it just cools more
> slowly.
> Tack the paper as for the press, at a point along one
> edge. Do NOT follow the Kodak method of making an X in the
> center of the print, that will gurantee uneven adhesion.
> I use the method of fusing the adhesive to the paper
> first and then trimming it and fusing it to the mount. That
> way you have only one interface at a time to keep free of
> bubbles and waves.
> For use with an iron tack the tissue to an edge as above.
> then cover the print on both sides with release tissue
> (which can be reused). Pad it on both sides with
> construction paper. Iron the tissue in place by beginning on
> the side that is tacked and working your way along to the
> free end. Place the sandwich under the weight for a few
> minutes. This should result in the print being evenly fused
> to the mounting tissue all over. Trim the print to the
> desired size. The mounting tissue will, of course, be
> trimmed with it.
> Then, place the pint on the mount and tack it, again at a
> point on one edge. Cover it with a sheet of release tissue
> and pad it with the construction or kraft paper. Iron it
> from the tacked edge to the open edge making sure the tissue
> has fused everywhere. Place the entire sandwich under the
> weight and allow it to cool. This should result in a perfect
> mounting. Its more work than with a press but does work.
> The key thing is to keep track of the temperature of the
> iron. Many have thermostats. Measure the temperature with
> something like a meat thermometer so that it is at the
> temperature specified for the mounting material. It will
> cool a bit when you begin to iron the tissue. A massive iron
> will hold its temperature better than a light one. If you
> use a steam iron make sure there is no water in it.
>
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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