[pure-silver] Re: Pure Black and Golden.
- From: "Peter Badcock" <forums@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2005 21:21:18 +1100
Hi Snoopy,
thanks for your contribution. You will see from my other
posts that it definitely was underexposure and possibly
overdevelopment.
I have a grey card and use the spotmeter in my Nikon 801s
since I don't have a separate hand held spotmeter.
If I understand you correctly, with the grey card exposures,
are you describing how you determine which shadow level to
expose for? i.e. are you determining your film's customised
ASA this way? Does this method relate to the often quoted
rule of thumb "expose for the shadows and develop for the
highlights"?
regards
Peter Badcock
> 2- Take pictures of the (gray) card under even light in a
typical
> situation, i.e.=20 daylight, studio light, flash etc. Very
> helpful here, to have a white board=20 or similar in the
> picture where you jot down the light source and...
>
> 3- the exposure: this you vary from frame to frame from -2
> fstops in 1/3=20 increments to +2 f-stops. Be sure to
> always note this with board marker on=20 the white board
> for EACH exposure AND ensure via viewfinder, that the
> white=20 board is also in the picture !! (Not a joke).
>
> 4- Develop the film according to your secret recipe
> (don=B4t forget the=20 chickens to beead and virgins to
> sacrifice...)
>
> 5- Take magnifying glass and count the number of gray
> shades you can make=20 out in each frame... the exposure
> that gives you most grays is "it". Read=20 off how many
> f-stops plus you had used for that exposure...thats what
> you=20 set your camera for, for the light used by this
> frame. For different light=20 sources you will get
> different figures usually.
>
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