Hello everyone, well I am back online and I am very happy to see that the usual crowd is=20 still there... sorry for the long absence, I was very ill (Details=20 off-topic available on request...) At 14:05 02.02.2005, you wrote: >I read your question. However, I think the largest part of the problem is >your underexposure. A Delta 400 has only about 250 "real" ASA. An exposure >with 800 ASA gives a main exposure (Zone V) of only about 2 1/2 stops over >clear film, and this could very well be your problem. You are trying to >capure fine detail in a black dog, and you don't have much "flesh" in the >density curve to do this. I fully agree with Martin on this one: most films are "overrated" by the=20 manufacturers and I strongly advise to overexpose negative films by 1/3 to= =20 1 whole f-stop. The way I figure out what to do, as a guideline, is: 1- get a Kodak calibrated Gray Scale Card (tm). Pretty expensive but one of= =20 the most useful widgets you will ever buy. Comes with a Colour Calibration= =20 Card as well, for free, in the same package :-) 2- Take pictures of the card under even light in a typical situation, i.e.= =20 daylight, studio light, flash etc. Very helpful here, to have a white board= =20 or similar in the picture where you jot down the light source and... 3- the exposure: this you vary from frame to frame from -2 fstops in 1/3=20 increments to +2 f-stops. Be sure to always note this with board marker on= =20 the white board for EACH exposure AND ensure via viewfinder, that the white= =20 board is also in the picture !! (Not a joke). 4- Develop the film according to your secret recipe (don=B4t forget the=20 chickens to beead and virgins to sacrifice...) 5- Take magnifying glass and count the number of gray shades you can make=20 out in each frame... the exposure that gives you most grays is "it". Read=20 off how many f-stops plus you had used for that exposure...thats what you=20 set your camera for, for the light used by this frame. For different light= =20 sources you will get different figures usually. This is only an approximate method, but it works for me, Some guys in the=20 photo club do the full Monty with densitometers etc. but I am happy with= this. Be sure to stick to your standard procedures: if for example you change=20 your development ritual, then you have to do the test strip again etc. Of course its a helluva lot of work, what did you think...? Keeps you off=20 the streets though...:-) Love, Snoopy=20 ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.