[modeleng] Re: bandsaws
- From: "shep" <shep.28@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 22:20:38 -0000
Thanks for this information, Jesse.
My new 'el cheapo' specifies a .025" thick blade - just about the thickness
that you use.
Cheers! Hubert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Livingston" <fernj1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 10:12 PM
Subject: [modeleng] Re: bandsaws
>I bevel/scarf the ends of my band saw blades till they overlap about 3/32"
> (for 1/8" bands) and then use a home made jig to hold everything in place
> while I use an ordinary hardware store propane torch to do the actual
> silver
> soldering. Hardly ever have one of the blades to break in the joint.
>
> Oh, I use those 1/8" blades for cutting out things from brass or
> aluminium.
> The saw I have been using for 34 years is a regular Sears woodworking saw
> (they still sell them) that I have slowed down as much as possible without
> having to put in a jackshaft. The blade speed is too high for ferrous
> metals, but works fine in everything else. I haven't had to weld any
> blades
> for the el cheapo saw that is out in the back shop. I did have trouble
> with
> those breaking, probably because of the 8" wheels so I have my blades made
> from the thinner material that is intended for the little hand held band
> saws like electricians and plumbers use. The thin (.022" I think) blade
> is
> more flexible and usually lasts a long time. I had to adjust the roller
> guides closer together, but that only took a minute or two.
>
> Speaking of roller blade guides, if you adjust them, make sure that you
> can
> hold the roller and make sure you can slip the blade through them. If the
> rollers are tight against a blade, they will stretch the blade and ruin it
> in only a few minutes. Been there done that---ruined a new blade too.
>
> Sadder but wiser in West Tennessee where it is nice and warm today
>
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