I bevel/scarf the ends of my band saw blades till they overlap about 3/32" (for 1/8" bands) and then use a home made jig to hold everything in place while I use an ordinary hardware store propane torch to do the actual silver soldering. Hardly ever have one of the blades to break in the joint. Oh, I use those 1/8" blades for cutting out things from brass or aluminium. The saw I have been using for 34 years is a regular Sears woodworking saw (they still sell them) that I have slowed down as much as possible without having to put in a jackshaft. The blade speed is too high for ferrous metals, but works fine in everything else. I haven't had to weld any blades for the el cheapo saw that is out in the back shop. I did have trouble with those breaking, probably because of the 8" wheels so I have my blades made from the thinner material that is intended for the little hand held band saws like electricians and plumbers use. The thin (.022" I think) blade is more flexible and usually lasts a long time. I had to adjust the roller guides closer together, but that only took a minute or two. Speaking of roller blade guides, if you adjust them, make sure that you can hold the roller and make sure you can slip the blade through them. If the rollers are tight against a blade, they will stretch the blade and ruin it in only a few minutes. Been there done that---ruined a new blade too. Sadder but wiser in West Tennessee where it is nice and warm today MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST. To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to, modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject line.