[pure-silver] Re: Personal Dev Times
- From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 12:04:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: titrisol <titrisol@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Personal Dev Times
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:46:13 -0700 (PDT)
> I prefer a shotgun approach
> Shoot a roll -2,-1,0,+1,+2 develop at a given time/temp
> then try making prints and see which one looks "normal"
> with a 2 or 3 filter in the enlarger.
> From there I choose my personal EI or go another iteration to
> achieve the result I want.
The part that affects contrast is development time and
temperature. With negative emulsions, exposure error within one stop
is unimportant because negatives are developed to such a low contrast
and the image contrast is boosted at the time of printing. Therefore
it is perfectly acceptable to shoot at the box speed, or maybe half
the box speed, and adjust the development time to print well on grade
2 paper.
In the old days of APX25 and Panatomic-X, this may be different, but
today's very fine grain and very high resolution medium speed films
are coated in 2 layers. The top layer is a blend of faster emulsions,
and the bottom is a blend of slower ones. The bottom emulsion is there
to decrease the loss of resolution by light scattering, and also
prevent the granularity to increase by "filling in" between large
grains in the top layer. It's really a well designed system that
increases exposure latitude without sacrificing resolution or
granularity. There is not much to gain from spending time in
fine-tuning exposure with today's excellent films like T-MAX 100 and
Acros. I still have a brick of APX25 but I prefer Acros to APX25, as
well (besides the bubble problem of Acros).
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