[modeleng] Re: Valve Gear Modifications
- From: "Pendragon" <idpriest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2004 18:08:24 -0000
Barrie,
I am going to test the loco tonight at my mates house, I have set the
valves and timing using the air and tube on draincock method and
conclude that there is a fundamental flaw in the design....the eccentric
rod is I believe too long. I am anticipating that the loco will run but
as you say with irregular beats....will let you know how I get
on......stand by for a full report.
Regards,
Ip
Priest & Sons Model Engineers
http://www.kinvermes.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/p1.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of BarriePurslow
Sent: 05 December 2004 23:58
To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [modeleng] Re: Valve Gear Modifications
Ian,
I have seen several of these engines run using the original Winson bits
- O.K. they don't have four square beats but they do run. Therefore I
suggest that your engine has been incorrectly assembled somewhere along
the line. The following runs the risk of teaching granny to suck eggs
but it's the best I can think of:-
I suggest that first of all you check that the return cranks are
correctly set i.e. the big end of the eccentric rod is 90 degrees behind
the crankpin when running forward.
I then suggest that, working on one side of the engine at a time, you
connect rubber tubes to the draincocks and place their open ends in
water. Using the reverser set the radius rod in mid gear then rotate the
wheels until the combination lever and radius rod are at right angles.
The piston valve should now be in the middle of it's travel and you can
check this by applying a few psi of air to the engine and observing the
submerged tubes. A small leakage flow should come from each tube.
Rocking the engine slightly back and forwards equal amounts should crack
the piston valve first one way then the other. If this is not the case
adjust the position of the bobbin on the piston valve rod until it is.
The engine should now run. If it doesn't the problem is almost certainly
leakage between the piston valve liners and the cylinder bodies.
If you wish to check the dimensions of the relevant bits of valve gear I
can probably scan the relevant parts of the Perrier drawings and email
them to you off list - just ask.
Cheers,
Barrie Purslow
Warrington UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pendragon" <idpriest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 4:17 PM
Subject: [modeleng] Re: Valve Gear Modifications
> Barrie,
>
> By any chance re the replacement parts were there any changes to the
> eccentric rod and or the valve bobbin or I suppose thinking about it
> the width of the valves on the bobbin....I fear that the eccentric rod
> I have is too long and and the valve bobbin too short.
>
> My understaning of walsharts is that providing the parts are made
> correctly then the system should work well, and that a pooly designed
> system will not work well and or a pooly made correctly designed
> system will not work. Now then as I regard that my workmanship is
> good and better than most amateur engineers and that I have bushed the
> original Winsons bits and bobs out so that there I little or no play
> then the only thing to deduce as to why it will not run correctly is
> that the design was poor to start with.
>
> If you can be of any assistance I'd be gratful, I am reluctant to
> remove the liners from the cylinders [I didn't fit them] and I believe
> they have been glued in place, this makes measuring the internal
> orifices / distance between ports and port dimensions difficult to say
> the least.........if I hade these measurements I might be able to
> redesign to at least make an acceptable running engine............ah
> well might be something to do on Christmas morning!!!!!!!!
>
> I have never seen the Perrier drawings I take it there is considerable
> difference to the Winsons version.
>
> Regards,
>
> IP
>
> Priest & Sons Model Engineers
> http://www.kinvermes.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/p1.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of BarriePurslow
> Sent: 05 December 2004 13:28
> To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [modeleng] Re: Valve Gear Modifications
>
>
> Hello Ian,
>
> I received the Winson valve gear mods for my Brit. I tried them on the
> engine but could not notice any difference. The basic problem I had
> was the abyssmal design of piston valves allowing leakage between the
> bobbins and the liners also leakages between the liners and cylinder
> body.
>
> I am at a loss to understand why you need the reverser in full reverse
> gear to get it to go forward. Although I do recall that the thread on
> the worm drive was R.H. and I changed it to L.H.....but you're not
> that daft?
>
> The best advice I can offer is to build it to the Perrier drawings.
> The Winson Brit was based on these - they bastardised, sorry,
> productionised it!
>
> Regards,
>
> Barrie Purslow
> Warrington UK
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pendragon" <idpriest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 10:41 PM
> Subject: [modeleng] Valve Gear Modifications
>
>
> > Greetings all,
> >
> > Saga of the Winsons Brit continues. I have just spent about two
> > hours
>
> > trying to set the valve gear on only one side of the engine. I can
> > just about get it managable providing the reverser is in 100% back
> > when I want to get the loco goinf forwards .....no I haven't got any
> > of the bits in the wrong place or set in the wrong quadrant...not
> > quite that daft yet!
> >
> > I am aware that Winsons had problems with this valve gear and
> > developed a modification, has anyone get any details.
> >
> > Regards IP
> >
> > Priest & Sons Model Engineers
> > http://www.kinvermes.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/p1.htm
> >
> >
> >
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