[tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy
- From: "w.wood" <evil.scientist.boo@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 14:37:46 -0400
Correct me if I'm wrong, don't you have that wrong way round? I thought
Vibrators had batteries not the other way round?
:-?
You're also supposed to have a ground strap from the transmission to the
frame horn as well... (that's a serious comment) Most people forget that
because that's where the real engine ground comes from, not from the battery
negative post.
w00t
On Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 9:22 AM, <wuzmop@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> On more thing to check, as I just had this problem, is your ground. With
> the lights on, put it in gear and accelerate, have someone watch the lights.
> When it tries to die, do the lights try to go out as well? I had a metal,
> not lead, battery ground strap that is only a few months old, it was so
> pitted and corroded it wouldn't make a ground even after I cleaned it
> spotlessly. It lost ground as soon as the battery vibrated.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: tcb <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 9:04 pm
> Subject: [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy
>
> Denis: If it is a stock PIC 30/31 it does. Chokes normally only cause
> idle problems as described when the engine is cold. Therefore I did not
> bring the choke up. But, yes it should have a choke. And the way to check
> if it is working properly is to pull the aircleaner, depress the throttle to
> the floor and then look at the choke butterfly. It should be almost
> closed. Turn on the key, give it a few minute to let the choke electrical
> element warm up and repeat the press throttle down. Buttlerfly should now
> be open.
>
> If butterly is stuck open it will cause the exact problems as described:
> but only if the engine is cold. If it is stuck closed it will cause the
> engine to idle too fast when the engine is warm; the opposite of what the
> problem is.
>
> And damn: It's hard to tune an engine over the internet. Or do brake work
> either for that matter.
>
> --- On *Tue, 9/27/11, Denis Dodson <coocoo@xxxxxxx>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Denis Dodson <coocoo@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Tuesday, September 27, 2011, 8:45 PM
>
> I still want to know if there is a choke on this bus. If there is it
> could do all the crap described.
>
>
>
> *From:* tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx?>]
> *On Behalf Of *sammie smith
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:41 PM
> *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> *Subject:* [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy
>
> Carl: I think is one of a couple of things on your carb. Here are a
> couple of things to do.
>
> First: On the right side of the carb there is a jet. You can see it,
> right side of carb, little about 5mm looking brass plug. This is you idle
> mixture jet. If it is clogged it can cause the problems you are
> experiencing. Remove it with a screw driver. Take it out, blow through it
> with compressed air to clean out any debrie that might be in there. Use low
> volume air and/or hold on to it real tignt, you don't want to blow it out of
> your hand and across the garage where you can't find it. Put it back in.
>
> Second: Adjust the carb. To do this first back off the screw on that
> ratchet looking thing until the screw is not touching the ratchet piece,
> then locate the two adjusting screws on the left side of the carb; they are
> inside a recessed fixture on the left side of the carb. The top one is a
> large screw, the bottom one is a much smaller screw. Get a screw driver
> that will fit in the recess and screw them both in until they bottom out,
> not tignt, just enough to seat them. Then back the top one out 2 1/2 turns
> and the bottom one 1 1/2 turn. The top large screw is the idle adjustment
> screw. The bottom one is idle mixture control. Crank the engine. Then
> adjust the large screw until the engine is idling properly. Then screw the
> bottom small screw in until the engine starts to slow down, then back the
> screw out about 1/2 turn. You can then readjust the large screw to get the
> idle speed you want: backing it out increases idle speed, screwing it in
> slows it down.
>
> If the problem is in carb adjustment or mixture control this should fix
> your problem.
>
> Carb adjustment should be the last thing on a tune and all of the above
> is assuming you have points and timing properly set. For example: If you
> have the timing set way retarded it will cause idling problems like you have
> described.
>
> Also: A vacum leak can cause the same type of problem. But simple
> things first. Make sure your points and timing are properly set (set the
> points first then the timing) and then do what I said to the carb.
>
> -- On *Tue, 9/27/11, Cari Smith <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx>* wrote:
>
> From: Cari Smith <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Tuesday, September 27, 2011, 5:05 PM
> Denis,
> As far as I know the choke is the flap at the top of the carb right? Is
> there a way to test to see if that's the culprit?
> On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 6:31 PM, Denis Dodson
> <coocoo@xxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=coocoo@xxxxxxx>>
> wrote:
> Really. Does it have a choke?
>
> *From:*
> tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>[mailto:
> tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]
> *On Behalf Of *sammie smith
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2011 6:27 PM
> *To:*
> tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> *Subject:* [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy
>
> We have lots of good VW mechanics on this list but they are mostly not
> mind readers. Tell us what year model bus, what engine, what carb.etc.
>
> --- On *Mon, 9/26/11, Cari Smith
> <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx>
> >* wrote:
>
> From: Cari Smith
> <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx>
> >
> Subject: [tcb] t@p pain and jeapordy
> To:
> tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Monday, September 26, 2011, 5:51 PM
> The other Paul Smith and I have worked to get the bus back to road worthy
> shape in time for T@P <http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=T@P>,
> but we are getting down to the wie. Here's our problem. We have a fuel/air
> mix problem that we can't seem to kick. Symptoms are a bus that does not
> idle correctly and Paul has to 3-foot it at all stops. That's one on the
> clutch, one on the brake, and one on the gas to keep us from stalling. The
> first and easiest answer is to adjust the idle. The screw does nothing and
> based on our Muir book, we cleaned the carb. Now will hold a fairly steady
> idle , but it's too low. When you engage the transmission it dies. Or when
> you rev the throttle, on the way back down to idle it goes too low and
> dies. So far we have: cleaned carb with carb cleaner, cleaned air filter,
> replaced fuel pump and rod, replace valve cover gasket (unrelated), replaced
> spark plugs, checked timing, run compression test... all is good. The only
> thing we havent replaced is points, but I surely would have thought fouled
> points would show up in the compression test.
>
> Any words of wisdom, we're caught between takinging it to a mechanic
> down the street for God knows how much moolah, or skipping Transporters
> altogether, which really means we would still come in our pontiac and just
> camp in a tent.
>
> Help!
> Cari smith
>
>
>
>
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