Correct me if I'm wrong, don't you have that wrong way round? I thought Vibrators had batteries not the other way round? :-? You're also supposed to have a ground strap from the transmission to the frame horn as well... (that's a serious comment) Most people forget that because that's where the real engine ground comes from, not from the battery negative post. w00t On Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 9:22 AM, <wuzmop@xxxxxxx> wrote: > On more thing to check, as I just had this problem, is your ground. With > the lights on, put it in gear and accelerate, have someone watch the lights. > When it tries to die, do the lights try to go out as well? I had a metal, > not lead, battery ground strap that is only a few months old, it was so > pitted and corroded it wouldn't make a ground even after I cleaned it > spotlessly. It lost ground as soon as the battery vibrated. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: tcb <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 9:04 pm > Subject: [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy > > Denis: If it is a stock PIC 30/31 it does. Chokes normally only cause > idle problems as described when the engine is cold. Therefore I did not > bring the choke up. But, yes it should have a choke. And the way to check > if it is working properly is to pull the aircleaner, depress the throttle to > the floor and then look at the choke butterfly. It should be almost > closed. Turn on the key, give it a few minute to let the choke electrical > element warm up and repeat the press throttle down. Buttlerfly should now > be open. > > If butterly is stuck open it will cause the exact problems as described: > but only if the engine is cold. If it is stuck closed it will cause the > engine to idle too fast when the engine is warm; the opposite of what the > problem is. > > And damn: It's hard to tune an engine over the internet. Or do brake work > either for that matter. > > --- On *Tue, 9/27/11, Denis Dodson <coocoo@xxxxxxx>* wrote: > > > From: Denis Dodson <coocoo@xxxxxxx> > Subject: [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Date: Tuesday, September 27, 2011, 8:45 PM > > I still want to know if there is a choke on this bus. If there is it > could do all the crap described. > > > > *From:* tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx?>] > *On Behalf Of *sammie smith > *Sent:* Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:41 PM > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy > > Carl: I think is one of a couple of things on your carb. Here are a > couple of things to do. > > First: On the right side of the carb there is a jet. You can see it, > right side of carb, little about 5mm looking brass plug. This is you idle > mixture jet. If it is clogged it can cause the problems you are > experiencing. Remove it with a screw driver. Take it out, blow through it > with compressed air to clean out any debrie that might be in there. Use low > volume air and/or hold on to it real tignt, you don't want to blow it out of > your hand and across the garage where you can't find it. Put it back in. > > Second: Adjust the carb. To do this first back off the screw on that > ratchet looking thing until the screw is not touching the ratchet piece, > then locate the two adjusting screws on the left side of the carb; they are > inside a recessed fixture on the left side of the carb. The top one is a > large screw, the bottom one is a much smaller screw. Get a screw driver > that will fit in the recess and screw them both in until they bottom out, > not tignt, just enough to seat them. Then back the top one out 2 1/2 turns > and the bottom one 1 1/2 turn. The top large screw is the idle adjustment > screw. The bottom one is idle mixture control. Crank the engine. Then > adjust the large screw until the engine is idling properly. Then screw the > bottom small screw in until the engine starts to slow down, then back the > screw out about 1/2 turn. You can then readjust the large screw to get the > idle speed you want: backing it out increases idle speed, screwing it in > slows it down. > > If the problem is in carb adjustment or mixture control this should fix > your problem. > > Carb adjustment should be the last thing on a tune and all of the above > is assuming you have points and timing properly set. For example: If you > have the timing set way retarded it will cause idling problems like you have > described. > > Also: A vacum leak can cause the same type of problem. But simple > things first. Make sure your points and timing are properly set (set the > points first then the timing) and then do what I said to the carb. > > -- On *Tue, 9/27/11, Cari Smith <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx>* wrote: > > From: Cari Smith <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx> > Subject: [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Date: Tuesday, September 27, 2011, 5:05 PM > Denis, > As far as I know the choke is the flap at the top of the carb right? Is > there a way to test to see if that's the culprit? > On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 6:31 PM, Denis Dodson > <coocoo@xxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=coocoo@xxxxxxx>> > wrote: > Really. Does it have a choke? > > *From:* > tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>[mailto: > tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>] > *On Behalf Of *sammie smith > *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2011 6:27 PM > *To:* > tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy > > We have lots of good VW mechanics on this list but they are mostly not > mind readers. Tell us what year model bus, what engine, what carb.etc. > > --- On *Mon, 9/26/11, Cari Smith > <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx> > >* wrote: > > From: Cari Smith > <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx> > > > Subject: [tcb] t@p pain and jeapordy > To: > tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Date: Monday, September 26, 2011, 5:51 PM > The other Paul Smith and I have worked to get the bus back to road worthy > shape in time for T@P <http://us.mc833.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=T@P>, > but we are getting down to the wie. Here's our problem. We have a fuel/air > mix problem that we can't seem to kick. Symptoms are a bus that does not > idle correctly and Paul has to 3-foot it at all stops. That's one on the > clutch, one on the brake, and one on the gas to keep us from stalling. The > first and easiest answer is to adjust the idle. The screw does nothing and > based on our Muir book, we cleaned the carb. Now will hold a fairly steady > idle , but it's too low. When you engage the transmission it dies. Or when > you rev the throttle, on the way back down to idle it goes too low and > dies. So far we have: cleaned carb with carb cleaner, cleaned air filter, > replaced fuel pump and rod, replace valve cover gasket (unrelated), replaced > spark plugs, checked timing, run compression test... all is good. The only > thing we havent replaced is points, but I surely would have thought fouled > points would show up in the compression test. > > Any words of wisdom, we're caught between takinging it to a mechanic > down the street for God knows how much moolah, or skipping Transporters > altogether, which really means we would still come in our pontiac and just > camp in a tent. > > Help! > Cari smith > > > > -- My Email Moniker http://www.findinternettv.com/Video,item,1570570433.aspx