[tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy

  • From: "w.wood" <evil.scientist.boo@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 14:44:50 -0400

Okay, here's a few simple things.

Sammie mentioned the idle jet, on later carbs you also had a pilot jet which
is adjacent to the idle jet.  If your carb has two small brass screws with
numbers on them on the right side of the carb (looking in at the engine)
remove both carefully and remember which one goes in which hole!

Use a piece of copper wire (multistrand) and use a couple of strands to
clean out any obstruction.  The jet (or jets) affect low to midrange RPM
performance of the engine.

Next if your carb has an Idle Bypass Screw, the big screw on the left and
the little mixture screw on the left, there is an O-Ring on there.  If it's
worn it will not cause a severe performance problem but falling o-ring
debris will.  You can get an O-Ring from any FLAPS just make sure to put a
little grease on it before putting back in the hole.  You can tell if you
have a Bypass Carb if it has the electrical solenoid on the left side of the
carb.  if you do have a solenoid with the key on (engine not running)
disconnect the wire and reconnect it.  You should hear a click come out of
the solenoid and please make sure you don't ground the wire while doing this
test!

Another area on these older carbs that can cause you problems are the
throttle shaft bushings.  You have a steel throttle shaft in a bronze
bushing and considering most busses are well into their Senior Citizen age
group, the bushings could be worn out.  I've also seen new carbs with crappy
bushing clearances and in all causes this causes vaccum leaks that lean the
mixture out, cause popping through the exhaust and other problems.  So if
you can "wiggle" your throttle shaft side to side in the bushing then it's
time to have your carb re-bushed.



On Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 1:41 PM, Steve Chamberlain <
steveraychamberlain@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> The o ring is only valid if you adjust the two screws out 2 1/2 turns as
> Sammie said, it works good then a few miles later it is back to not ideling.
> It is the o rings under the two screws that won't keep the screws adjusted
> properly and can be bought at any good VW parts supplier.
> The anti-diesel valve is a small canister with a neck that screws into the
> left side of the carb. The other end of the canister has a wire that goes to
> the hot side of the coil.When power is turned off the valve closes and stops
> the carb from dieseling.
>
> On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 8:16 PM, Cari Smith <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> Guess I just responded to Sammy, but here it is....
>>  Sammy, The Solex carb has H30-31PICT printed on it and it's a 1969
>> bus... any hitnts?
>> - Show quoted text -
>>
>>
>> Do tell about the oring.... is it attached to the idle screw? Where to
>> find a replacement?
>>
>> Anti-diesel valve> Where is it? The bus does not diesel after we turn the
>> key off.... does that matter?
>>
>>   On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 5:07 PM, Steve Chamberlain <
>> steveraychamberlain@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>> You never answered Sammies question about year etc. On my stock 34 pic it
>>> ran on the road great but same symptoms at stops. I would back the
>>> adjustment screw out 2 1/2 turns, it would run good a little bit then back
>>> again. I replaced the o ring on the adjustment screw and that settled it.
>>> Another place to look is at anti-disel valve. If it comes unscrewed it will
>>> die.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> .On Tue, Sep 27, 2011 at 4:33 PM, <wuzmop@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Plug wires routed wrong! Points are also VERY important, but have no
>>>> bearing on the compression, so the comp test wouldn't tell you that.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Biggestdaddyo <biggestdaddyo@xxxxxxxxx>
>>>> To: tcb <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> Sent: Tue, Sep 27, 2011 9:01 am
>>>> Subject: [tcb] Re: t@p pain and jeapordy
>>>>
>>>>  This seems to have "vacuum leak" written all over it.  I would check
>>>> the nuts/bolts on the entire intake system for tightness.
>>>>   *From:* Cari Smith <cariandpaul@xxxxxxxxx>
>>>> *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2011 5:51 PM
>>>>
>>>> *Subject:* [tcb] t@p pain and jeapordy
>>>>
>>>>  The other Paul Smith and I have worked to get the bus back to road
>>>> worthy shape in time for T@P, but we are getting down to the wie.
>>>> Here's our problem.  We have a fuel/air mix problem that we can't seem to
>>>> kick.  Symptoms are a bus that does not idle correctly and Paul has to
>>>> 3-foot it at all stops.  That's one on the clutch, one on the brake, and 
>>>> one
>>>> on the gas to keep us from stalling. The first and easiest answer is to
>>>> adjust the idle.  The screw does nothing and based on our Muir book, we
>>>> cleaned the carb.  Now will hold a fairly steady idle , but it's too low.
>>>> When you engage the transmission it dies.  Or when you rev the throttle, on
>>>> the way back down to idle it goes too low and dies.  So far we have: 
>>>> cleaned
>>>> carb with carb cleaner, cleaned air filter, replaced fuel pump and rod,
>>>> replace valve cover gasket (unrelated), replaced spark plugs, checked
>>>> timing, run compression test... all is good.  The only thing we havent
>>>> replaced is points, but  I surely would have thought fouled points would
>>>> show up in the compression test.
>>>>
>>>> Any words of wisdom, we're caught between takinging it to a mechanic
>>>> down the street for God knows how much moolah, or skipping Transporters
>>>> altogether, which really means we would still come in our pontiac and just
>>>> camp in a tent.
>>>>
>>>> Help!
>>>> Cari smith
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>


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