Thanks for all of the advice I will follow a bunch of it. I will do my bestest, but remember I am not building a show vehicle, I am building a go vehicle and not just a go vehicle but a rough and tumble beast that can take a licking. (But I don't want peeling paint or drips or rust finding its way through.). On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > San Jac has a class on painting that a few of the folks here in Houston have > taken. They were able take their vehicles into the shop and use the school's > equipment. > > There may be a community college over your way that has a similar class. > > > From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; > Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? > Sent: Sun, Jul 21, 2013 2:52:16 PM > > What others have said already. Lots of good info on the web. The Samba has > a thread on paint & body work. Prep is super important. One thing I would > suggest: I found a primer a few years back on the recommendation of a very > good paint & body man. It is Transtar. It is an epoxy primer which can be > shot directly on bare metal and does not need to be sealed before you shoot > the color. It is a heavy fill primer. It costs about $100 per gallon with > hardner and can be obtained at O'Reily's or most any auto paint supplier. > Primer with it and block sand; shoot some more and block sand. Continue to > you get a smooth body to shoot. I have painted three split busses. Have > found that an easy way to do it is to shoot a section at a time, not try to > shoot the entire vehicle all at once. For example: prep, primer, block sand, > then shoot the top as one project. It is easy to mask off the entire vehicle > except for the top, complete the top, then mask off the top and shoot another > section, like the top of the bed. Use acrylic urethane paint. I use PPG > concept single stage (i.e. no clear coat) It is super easy to work with but > with hardener, reducer and color it is expensive. To paint your DC will > probably take a gallon + another quart. You need three guns: a cheapo > ($100) to shoot primer; an expensive one ($200 and up, friend in the paint > business guns costs $800) to shoot color, and a detail gun (small to shoot > small and tight areas, about $150). > > Total cost for paint & materials to do a correct job on a bus approaches > $1,000 and this does not include compressor and guns. > > Water is your enemy. You need line filters for your air before it reaches > your gun. > > After shooting color on a section of your bus you need to color sand and > buff. If you use acrylic urethane paint (which you should) you can do the > color sanding and buffing within a short period of time after shooting the > paint. Overnight drying is fine and I have sanded out problem areas within a > couple of hours after shooting the color, acrylic urethane dries very fast. > The color sanding and buffing is the real secret of a smooth and slick paint > job. Wet sand in one direction with 2,000 grit paper then wet sand in a 90 > degree direction with 3,000 grit, then put the buffer on it with a course > compound working down a couple of stages to a fine compound. It takes about > 40 hours of labor to color sand a bus. > > After finishing you will be well versed in why paint & body shops charge so > much for a good paint job. > > To experiment with your abilities start with a small piece of the bus; like > the engine deck lid and see what you can do from prep, primer, color, color > sanding & buffing. > > Watch the videos on how to shoot and read the info on the Samba threads. > > Beyond that: Call or e-mail if you have problems. Chucks pretty good, > Duncan painted Freedom, and I have painted a few VWs. Also, your friendly > local auto paint supplier is a good source of information. If you have an > English Color dealer in Austin they are a PPG dealer and can give you some > real good advice. > > From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx> > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:53 PM > Subject: [tcb] Painting tips? > > I am getting closer to the magical painting time for Sonne. I must admit > that I am a bit worried. I have never used a spray gun before. > > Do any of you seasoned pros have any tips you can share with me so that I am > prepared? It would be very appreciated! > > And a big thank you to Sammie and Noralynn for helping me find my beloved > stripper. Sammie, I could not find the thinner reddish brown ones at the > different Lowes that I tried. They only had the thick black ones. But > Noralynn found them at Walmart and I bought all of them. > > In case anybody cares for the future they are made by 3M. The label says: > Scotch-Brite Paint & Varnish Remover Contour Surface. They are 5" and go on > a drill. > > Julie > >