[tcb] Re: Painting tips?

  • From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:08:55 -0500

Thanks for all of the advice I will follow a bunch of it.   I will do my 
bestest, but remember I am not building a show vehicle, I am building a go 
vehicle and not just a go vehicle but a rough and tumble beast that can take a 
licking.  (But I don't want peeling paint or drips or rust finding its way 
through.). 




On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 
> San Jac has a class on painting that a few of the folks here in Houston have 
> taken. They were able take their vehicles into the shop and use the school's 
> equipment.
> 
> There may be a community college over your way that has a similar class.
> 
> 
> From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? 
> Sent: Sun, Jul 21, 2013 2:52:16 PM 
> 
> What others have said already.  Lots of good info on the web.  The Samba has 
> a thread on paint & body work.  Prep is super important.  One thing I would 
> suggest:  I found a primer a few years back on the recommendation of a very 
> good paint & body man.  It is Transtar.  It is an epoxy primer which can be 
> shot directly on bare metal and does not need to be sealed before you shoot 
> the color.  It is a heavy fill primer.  It costs about $100 per gallon with 
> hardner and can be obtained at O'Reily's or most any auto paint supplier.  
> Primer with it and block sand; shoot some more and block sand.  Continue to 
> you get a smooth body to shoot.  I have painted three split busses.  Have 
> found that an easy way to do it is to shoot a section at a time, not try to 
> shoot the entire vehicle all at once.  For example: prep, primer, block sand, 
> then shoot the top as one project.  It is easy to mask off the entire vehicle 
> except for the top, complete the top, then mask off the top and shoot another 
> section, like the top of the bed.  Use acrylic urethane paint.  I use PPG 
> concept single stage (i.e. no clear coat)  It is super easy to work with but 
> with hardener, reducer and color it is expensive.  To paint your DC will 
> probably take a gallon + another quart.  You need three guns:  a cheapo 
> ($100) to shoot primer; an expensive one ($200 and up, friend in the paint 
> business guns costs $800) to shoot color, and a detail gun (small to shoot 
> small and tight areas, about $150).
>  
> Total cost for paint & materials to do a correct job on a bus approaches 
> $1,000 and this does not include compressor and guns. 
>  
> Water is your enemy.  You need line filters for your air before it reaches 
> your gun.
>  
> After shooting color on a section of your bus you need to color sand and 
> buff.  If you use acrylic urethane paint (which you should) you can do the 
> color sanding and buffing within a short period of time after shooting the 
> paint. Overnight drying is fine and I have sanded out problem areas within a 
> couple of hours after shooting the color, acrylic urethane dries very fast.  
> The color sanding and buffing is the real secret of a smooth and slick paint 
> job.  Wet sand in one direction with 2,000 grit paper then wet sand in a 90 
> degree direction with 3,000 grit, then put the buffer on it with a course 
> compound working down a couple of stages to a fine compound.  It takes about 
> 40 hours of labor to color sand a bus.
>  
> After finishing you will be well versed in why paint & body shops charge so 
> much for a good paint job.
>  
> To experiment with your abilities start with a small piece of the bus; like 
> the engine deck lid and see what you can do from prep, primer, color, color 
> sanding & buffing.
>  
> Watch the videos on how to shoot and read the info on the Samba threads. 
>  
> Beyond that:  Call or e-mail if you have problems.  Chucks pretty good, 
> Duncan painted Freedom, and I have painted a few VWs.  Also, your friendly 
> local auto paint supplier is a good source of information.  If you have an 
> English Color dealer in Austin they are a PPG dealer and can give you some 
> real good advice.
> 
> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:53 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Painting tips?
> 
> I am getting closer to the magical painting time for Sonne.  I must admit 
> that I am a bit worried.  I have never used a spray gun before.  
> 
> Do any of you seasoned pros have any tips you can share with me so that I am 
> prepared?  It would be very appreciated!
> 
> And a big thank you to Sammie and Noralynn for helping me find my beloved 
> stripper.  Sammie, I could not find the thinner reddish brown ones at the 
> different Lowes that I tried. They only had the thick black ones.  But 
> Noralynn found them at Walmart and I bought all of them.  
> 
> In case anybody cares for the future they are made by 3M.  The label says: 
> Scotch-Brite Paint & Varnish Remover Contour Surface.  They are 5" and go on 
> a drill.  
> 
> Julie
> 
> 

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