But there is something about doing it myself. I wish I didn't have to have a metal guy. I wish I could do it all and had all the time needed. Sonne will be flawed and many folks won't like her a bit but I will be proud and she will be like no other. On Jul 21, 2013, at 3:50 PM, Ronnie Hughes <fracdogii@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Also, if you have the body prepared, the windows and trim off, MAACO charges > $350 for a single color. They don't do a good job of prepping, but they have > all the right tools, booth, etc. to good a good quality paint job down for > about $200 more than the paint will cost you. > > > From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx> > To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 1:49 PM > Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? > > There is a complicated answer to your question Abe, so I will refrain from > answering. And what I am doing now is only part of a master plan. It may > end up genius or a horrible disaster but it will be my own doing and it will > be a work in progress for at least a year. > > And to the person who wondered if I will bedazzle my DC with plastic gems or > cover it in alfalfa, trust me, those things will not be happening. That > would be ridiculous. > > On Jul 21, 2013, at 1:28 PM, abe schlichting <gogretago@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > >> are you going with a normal gloss look, or matte, or flat? the sheen will >> bring out the flaws, IOW it would be much easier to make a matte paint look >> good, but mattes can show overspray really bad, and you can't polish it out >> without getting a shinny spot... >> >> >> From: "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx> >> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:19 PM >> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? >> >> There's always the Rustoleum roll on paint job: >> >> http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/ >> >> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/roll-paint-job-beefstew-style-656003/ >> >> There are lots of iterations of this on the web. Whether any are legit, I >> don't know. But for a low budget project, it may be worth a shot. >> >> Otherwise, maybe Dupont Imron may be an option? >> >> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx> >> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:08 PM >> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? >> >> Thanks for all of the advice I will follow a bunch of it. I will do my >> bestest, but remember I am not building a show vehicle, I am building a go >> vehicle and not just a go vehicle but a rough and tumble beast that can take >> a licking. (But I don't want peeling paint or drips or rust finding its way >> through.). >> >> >> >> >> On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx> >> wrote: >> >>> >>> San Jac has a class on painting that a few of the folks here in Houston >>> have taken. They were able take their vehicles into the shop and use the >>> school's equipment. >>> There may be a community college over your way that has a similar class. >>> >>> From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; >>> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; >>> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? >>> Sent: Sun, Jul 21, 2013 2:52:16 PM >>> >>> What others have said already. Lots of good info on the web. The Samba >>> has a thread on paint & body work. Prep is super important. One thing I >>> would suggest: I found a primer a few years back on the recommendation of >>> a very good paint & body man. It is Transtar. It is an epoxy primer which >>> can be shot directly on bare metal and does not need to be sealed before >>> you shoot the color. It is a heavy fill primer. It costs about $100 per >>> gallon with hardner and can be obtained at O'Reily's or most any auto paint >>> supplier. Primer with it and block sand; shoot some more and block sand. >>> Continue to you get a smooth body to shoot. I have painted three split >>> busses. Have found that an easy way to do it is to shoot a section at a >>> time, not try to shoot the entire vehicle all at once. For example: prep, >>> primer, block sand, then shoot the top as one project. It is easy to mask >>> off the entire vehicle except for the top, complete the top, then mask off >>> the top and shoot another section, like the top of the bed. Use acrylic >>> urethane paint. I use PPG concept single stage (i.e. no clear coat) It is >>> super easy to work with but with hardener, reducer and color it is >>> expensive. To paint your DC will probably take a gallon + another quart. >>> You need three guns: a cheapo ($100) to shoot primer; an expensive one >>> ($200 and up, friend in the paint business guns costs $800) to shoot color, >>> and a detail gun (small to shoot small and tight areas, about $150). >>> >>> Total cost for paint & materials to do a correct job on a bus approaches >>> $1,000 and this does not include compressor and guns. >>> >>> Water is your enemy. You need line filters for your air before it reaches >>> your gun. >>> >>> After shooting color on a section of your bus you need to color sand and >>> buff. If you use acrylic urethane paint (which you should) you can do the >>> color sanding and buffing within a short period of time after shooting the >>> paint. Overnight drying is fine and I have sanded out problem areas within >>> a couple of hours after shooting the color, acrylic urethane dries very >>> fast. The color sanding and buffing is the real secret of a smooth and >>> slick paint job. Wet sand in one direction with 2,000 grit paper then wet >>> sand in a 90 degree direction with 3,000 grit, then put the buffer on it >>> with a course compound working down a couple of stages to a fine compound. >>> It takes about 40 hours of labor to color sand a bus. >>> >>> After finishing you will be well versed in why paint & body shops charge so >>> much for a good paint job. >>> >>> To experiment with your abilities start with a small piece of the bus; like >>> the engine deck lid and see what you can do from prep, primer, color, color >>> sanding & buffing. >>> >>> Watch the videos on how to shoot and read the info on the Samba threads. >>> >>> Beyond that: Call or e-mail if you have problems. Chucks pretty good, >>> Duncan painted Freedom, and I have painted a few VWs. Also, your friendly >>> local auto paint supplier is a good source of information. If you have an >>> English Color dealer in Austin they are a PPG dealer and can give you some >>> real good advice. >>> >>> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx> >>> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >>> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:53 PM >>> Subject: [tcb] Painting tips? >>> >>> I am getting closer to the magical painting time for Sonne. I must admit >>> that I am a bit worried. I have never used a spray gun before. >>> >>> Do any of you seasoned pros have any tips you can share with me so that I >>> am prepared? It would be very appreciated! >>> >>> And a big thank you to Sammie and Noralynn for helping me find my beloved >>> stripper. Sammie, I could not find the thinner reddish brown ones at the >>> different Lowes that I tried. They only had the thick black ones. But >>> Noralynn found them at Walmart and I bought all of them. >>> >>> In case anybody cares for the future they are made by 3M. The label says: >>> Scotch-Brite Paint & Varnish Remover Contour Surface. They are 5" and go >>> on a drill. >>> >>> Julie > >