[tcb] Re: Painting tips?
- From: Conrad Klahn <conradk@xxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 21:43:32 -0500
I guess I'll throw in a couple of cents...
The guy who painted my bus didn't wait long enough between base and clear and
the paint is cracked in places. The paint itself wasn't cheap as far as I can
tell.
I think it is just like house paint, you can get cheap paint that looks good
for a shorter period of time, and more expensive paint that looks good for a
longer period of time.
On Jul 21, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Ronnie Hughes <fracdogii@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> $120 will buy you 96 oz of acrylic urethane topcoat and 32 oz of activator
> from Eastwood.
>
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>
>
>
> From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 4:31 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
>
> I've never figured out what kind of paint they use Ronnie. To do a "correct"
> job of painting a VW bus with a quality paint and primer you will spend
> upwards of $1,000 for paint and materials. You will go through a gallon of
> primer, 5 quarts of paint, hardener and reducer, lots of masking tape,
> sandpaper, laquer thinner etc. So how in the heck do you think you can buy
> the paint for $150? One quart of SWR PPG Concept cost $100, and that's 1/5th
> of the paint you will need and does not include the reducer and the hardener.
> And they think the hardener is made out of gold.
>
> From: Ronnie Hughes <fracdogii@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 3:50 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
> Also, if you have the body prepared, the windows and trim off, MAACO charges
> $350 for a single color. They don't do a good job of prepping, but they have
> all the right tools, booth, etc. to good a good quality paint job down for
> about $200 more than the paint will cost you.
>
>
> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 1:49 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
> There is a complicated answer to your question Abe, so I will refrain from
> answering. And what I am doing now is only part of a master plan. It may
> end up genius or a horrible disaster but it will be my own doing and it will
> be a work in progress for at least a year.
>
> And to the person who wondered if I will bedazzle my DC with plastic gems or
> cover it in alfalfa, trust me, those things will not be happening. That
> would be ridiculous. On Jul 21, 2013, at 1:28 PM, abe schlichting
> <gogretago@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> are you going with a normal gloss look, or matte, or flat? the sheen will
>> bring out the flaws, IOW it would be much easier to make a matte paint look
>> good, but mattes can show overspray really bad, and you can't polish it out
>> without getting a shinny spot...
>>
>>
>> From: "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:19 PM
>> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
>> There's always the Rustoleum roll on paint job:
>>
>> http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/
>>
>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/roll-paint-job-beefstew-style-656003/
>>
>> There are lots of iterations of this on the web. Whether any are legit, I
>> don't know. But for a low budget project, it may be worth a shot.
>>
>> Otherwise, maybe Dupont Imron may be an option?
>>
>> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:08 PM
>> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
>> Thanks for all of the advice I will follow a bunch of it. I will do my
>> bestest, but remember I am not building a show vehicle, I am building a go
>> vehicle and not just a go vehicle but a rough and tumble beast that can take
>> a licking. (But I don't want peeling paint or drips or rust finding its way
>> through.).
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> San Jac has a class on painting that a few of the folks here in Houston
>>> have taken. They were able take their vehicles into the shop and use the
>>> school's equipment.
>>> There may be a community college over your way that has a similar class.
>>> From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? Sent: Sun, Jul 21,
>>> 2013 2:52:16 PM
>>> What others have said already. Lots of good info on the web. The Samba
>>> has a thread on paint & body work. Prep is super important. One thing I
>>> would suggest: I found a primer a few years back on the recommendation of
>>> a very good paint & body man. It is Transtar. It is an epoxy primer which
>>> can be shot directly on bare metal and does not need to be sealed before
>>> you shoot the color. It is a heavy fill primer. It costs about $100 per
>>> gallon with hardner and can be obtained at O'Reily's or most any auto paint
>>> supplier. Primer with it and block sand; shoot some more and block sand.
>>> Continue to you get a smooth body to shoot. I have painted three split
>>> busses. Have found that an easy way to do it is to shoot a section at a
>>> time, not try to shoot the entire vehicle all at once. For example: prep,
>>> primer, block sand, then shoot the top as one project. It is easy to mask
>>> off the entire vehicle except for the top, complete the top, then mask off
>>> the top and shoot another section, like the top of the bed. Use acrylic
>>> urethane paint. I use PPG concept single stage (i.e. no clear coat) It is
>>> super easy to work with but with hardener, reducer and color it is
>>> expensive. To paint your DC will probably take a gallon + another quart.
>>> You need three guns: a cheapo ($100) to shoot primer; an expensive one
>>> ($200 and up, friend in the paint business guns costs $800) to shoot color,
>>> and a detail gun (small to shoot small and tight areas, about $150).
>>>
>>> Total cost for paint & materials to do a correct job on a bus approaches
>>> $1,000 and this does not include compressor and guns.
>>>
>>> Water is your enemy. You need line filters for your air before it reaches
>>> your gun.
>>>
>>> After shooting color on a section of your bus you need to color sand and
>>> buff. If you use acrylic urethane paint (which you should) you can do the
>>> color sanding and buffing within a short period of time after shooting the
>>> paint. Overnight drying is fine and I have sanded out problem areas within
>>> a couple of hours after shooting the color, acrylic urethane dries very
>>> fast. The color sanding and buffing is the real secret of a smooth and
>>> slick paint job. Wet sand in one direction with 2,000 grit paper then wet
>>> sand in a 90 degree direction with 3,000 grit, then put the buffer on it
>>> with a course compound working down a couple of stages to a fine compound.
>>> It takes about 40 hours of labor to color sand a bus.
>>>
>>> After finishing you will be well versed in why paint & body shops charge so
>>> much for a good paint job.
>>>
>>> To experiment with your abilities start with a small piece of the bus; like
>>> the engine deck lid and see what you can do from prep, primer, color, color
>>> sanding & buffing.
>>>
>>> Watch the videos on how to shoot and read the info on the Samba threads.
>>>
>>> Beyond that: Call or e-mail if you have problems. Chucks pretty good,
>>> Duncan painted Freedom, and I have painted a few VWs. Also, your friendly
>>> local auto paint supplier is a good source of information. If you have an
>>> English Color dealer in Austin they are a PPG dealer and can give you some
>>> real good advice.
>>> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
>>> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:53 PM
>>> Subject: [tcb] Painting tips?
>>> I am getting closer to the magical painting time for Sonne. I must admit
>>> that I am a bit worried. I have never used a spray gun before. Do any of
>>> you seasoned pros have any tips you can share with me so that I am
>>> prepared? It would be very appreciated! And a big thank you to Sammie and
>>> Noralynn for helping me find my beloved stripper. Sammie, I could not find
>>> the thinner reddish brown ones at the different Lowes that I tried. They
>>> only had the thick black ones. But Noralynn found them at Walmart and I
>>> bought all of them. In case anybody cares for the future they are made by
>>> 3M. The label says: Scotch-Brite Paint & Varnish Remover Contour Surface.
>>> They are 5" and go on a drill. Julie
>
>
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