[tcb] Re: Painting tips?
- From: "Denis" <coocoo@xxxxxxx>
- To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 17:48:21 -0500
The last time I saw a car painted by MAACO or Earl Schieb they looked like they
had been painted with fingernail polish.
I have seen a decent paint job on a Baja using tractor paint from Tractor
Supply.
Personally, I think that if you are going to spend hundreds and hundreds of
dollars and a million woman hours on it, you should let your excellent
body/metal worker do it and pay them. That is better than busting your ass and
then standing back and saying !#*?! If you want a bus you can plow around at
Shasta and the trails of Big Bend, then use paint from tractor supply, or
whatever.
As I said earlier, take a chance, do what you want, try your best and have fun.
Make it easy so that you’re not angry when you finish, and remember, you can
always do it over.
Duncan painted his, how hard can it be?
From: Ronnie Hughes
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 4:57 PM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
$120 will buy you 96 oz of acrylic urethane topcoat and 32 oz of activator from
Eastwood.
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From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 4:31 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
I've never figured out what kind of paint they use Ronnie. To do a "correct"
job of painting a VW bus with a quality paint and primer you will spend upwards
of $1,000 for paint and materials. You will go through a gallon of primer, 5
quarts of paint, hardener and reducer, lots of masking tape, sandpaper, laquer
thinner etc. So how in the heck do you think you can buy the paint for $150?
One quart of SWR PPG Concept cost $100, and that's 1/5th of the paint you will
need and does not include the reducer and the hardener. And they think the
hardener is made out of gold.
From: Ronnie Hughes <fracdogii@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 3:50 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
Also, if you have the body prepared, the windows and trim off, MAACO charges
$350 for a single color. They don't do a good job of prepping, but they have
all the right tools, booth, etc. to good a good quality paint job down for
about $200 more than the paint will cost you.
From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 1:49 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
There is a complicated answer to your question Abe, so I will refrain from
answering. And what I am doing now is only part of a master plan. It may end
up genius or a horrible disaster but it will be my own doing and it will be a
work in progress for at least a year.
And to the person who wondered if I will bedazzle my DC with plastic gems or
cover it in alfalfa, trust me, those things will not be happening. That would
be ridiculous. On Jul 21, 2013, at 1:28 PM, abe schlichting
<gogretago@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
are you going with a normal gloss look, or matte, or flat? the sheen will
bring out the flaws, IOW it would be much easier to make a matte paint look
good, but mattes can show overspray really bad, and you can't polish it out
without getting a shinny spot...
From: "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:19 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
There's always the Rustoleum roll on paint job:
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/roll-paint-job-beefstew-style-656003/
There are lots of iterations of this on the web. Whether any are legit, I
don't know. But for a low budget project, it may be worth a shot.
Otherwise, maybe Dupont Imron may be an option?
From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:08 PM
Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
Thanks for all of the advice I will follow a bunch of it. I will do my
bestest, but remember I am not building a show vehicle, I am building a go
vehicle and not just a go vehicle but a rough and tumble beast that can take a
licking. (But I don't want peeling paint or drips or rust finding its way
through.).
On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
San Jac has a class on painting that a few of the folks here in
Houston have taken. They were able take their vehicles into the shop and use
the school's equipment.
There may be a community college over your way that has a similar
class.
From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
<tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips? Sent: Sun, Jul 21, 2013
2:52:16 PM
What others have said already. Lots of good info on the web. The
Samba has a thread on paint & body work. Prep is super important. One thing I
would suggest: I found a primer a few years back on the recommendation of a
very good paint & body man. It is Transtar. It is an epoxy primer which can
be shot directly on bare metal and does not need to be sealed before you shoot
the color. It is a heavy fill primer. It costs about $100 per gallon with
hardner and can be obtained at O'Reily's or most any auto paint supplier.
Primer with it and block sand; shoot some more and block sand. Continue to you
get a smooth body to shoot. I have painted three split busses. Have found
that an easy way to do it is to shoot a section at a time, not try to shoot the
entire vehicle all at once. For example: prep, primer, block sand, then shoot
the top as one project. It is easy to mask off the entire vehicle except for
the top, complete the top, then mask off the top and shoot another section,
like the top of the bed. Use acrylic urethane paint. I use PPG concept single
stage (i.e. no clear coat) It is super easy to work with but with hardener,
reducer and color it is expensive. To paint your DC will probably take a
gallon + another quart. You need three guns: a cheapo ($100) to shoot primer;
an expensive one ($200 and up, friend in the paint business guns costs $800) to
shoot color, and a detail gun (small to shoot small and tight areas, about
$150).
Total cost for paint & materials to do a correct job on a bus
approaches $1,000 and this does not include compressor and guns.
Water is your enemy. You need line filters for your air before it
reaches your gun.
After shooting color on a section of your bus you need to color sand
and buff. If you use acrylic urethane paint (which you should) you can do the
color sanding and buffing within a short period of time after shooting the
paint. Overnight drying is fine and I have sanded out problem areas within a
couple of hours after shooting the color, acrylic urethane dries very fast.
The color sanding and buffing is the real secret of a smooth and slick paint
job. Wet sand in one direction with 2,000 grit paper then wet sand in a 90
degree direction with 3,000 grit, then put the buffer on it with a course
compound working down a couple of stages to a fine compound. It takes about 40
hours of labor to color sand a bus.
After finishing you will be well versed in why paint & body shops
charge so much for a good paint job.
To experiment with your abilities start with a small piece of the
bus; like the engine deck lid and see what you can do from prep, primer, color,
color sanding & buffing.
Watch the videos on how to shoot and read the info on the Samba
threads.
Beyond that: Call or e-mail if you have problems. Chucks pretty
good, Duncan painted Freedom, and I have painted a few VWs. Also, your
friendly local auto paint supplier is a good source of information. If you
have an English Color dealer in Austin they are a PPG dealer and can give you
some real good advice.
From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:53 PM
Subject: [tcb] Painting tips?
I am getting closer to the magical painting time for Sonne. I must
admit that I am a bit worried. I have never used a spray gun before. Do any
of you seasoned pros have any tips you can share with me so that I am prepared?
It would be very appreciated! And a big thank you to Sammie and Noralynn for
helping me find my beloved stripper. Sammie, I could not find the thinner
reddish brown ones at the different Lowes that I tried. They only had the thick
black ones. But Noralynn found them at Walmart and I bought all of them. In
case anybody cares for the future they are made by 3M. The label says:
Scotch-Brite Paint & Varnish Remover Contour Surface. They are 5" and go on a
drill. Julie
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