[tcb] Re: Painting tips?
- From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 13:49:13 -0500
There is a complicated answer to your question Abe, so I will refrain from
answering. And what I am doing now is only part of a master plan. It may end
up genius or a horrible disaster but it will be my own doing and it will be a
work in progress for at least a year.
And to the person who wondered if I will bedazzle my DC with plastic gems or
cover it in alfalfa, trust me, those things will not be happening. That would
be ridiculous.
On Jul 21, 2013, at 1:28 PM, abe schlichting <gogretago@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> are you going with a normal gloss look, or matte, or flat? the sheen will
> bring out the flaws, IOW it would be much easier to make a matte paint look
> good, but mattes can show overspray really bad, and you can't polish it out
> without getting a shinny spot...
>
>
> From: "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:19 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
>
> There's always the Rustoleum roll on paint job:
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or...-How-to-paint-your-c/
>
> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/roll-paint-job-beefstew-style-656003/
>
> There are lots of iterations of this on the web. Whether any are legit, I
> don't know. But for a low budget project, it may be worth a shot.
>
> Otherwise, maybe Dupont Imron may be an option?
>
> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:08 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
>
> Thanks for all of the advice I will follow a bunch of it. I will do my
> bestest, but remember I am not building a show vehicle, I am building a go
> vehicle and not just a go vehicle but a rough and tumble beast that can take
> a licking. (But I don't want peeling paint or drips or rust finding its way
> through.).
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 21, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "thingmon@xxxxxxxxx" <thingmon@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>>
>> San Jac has a class on painting that a few of the folks here in Houston have
>> taken. They were able take their vehicles into the shop and use the school's
>> equipment.
>> There may be a community college over your way that has a similar class.
>>
>> From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>;
>> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>;
>> Subject: [tcb] Re: Painting tips?
>> Sent: Sun, Jul 21, 2013 2:52:16 PM
>>
>> What others have said already. Lots of good info on the web. The Samba has
>> a thread on paint & body work. Prep is super important. One thing I would
>> suggest: I found a primer a few years back on the recommendation of a very
>> good paint & body man. It is Transtar. It is an epoxy primer which can be
>> shot directly on bare metal and does not need to be sealed before you shoot
>> the color. It is a heavy fill primer. It costs about $100 per gallon with
>> hardner and can be obtained at O'Reily's or most any auto paint supplier.
>> Primer with it and block sand; shoot some more and block sand. Continue to
>> you get a smooth body to shoot. I have painted three split busses. Have
>> found that an easy way to do it is to shoot a section at a time, not try to
>> shoot the entire vehicle all at once. For example: prep, primer, block
>> sand, then shoot the top as one project. It is easy to mask off the entire
>> vehicle except for the top, complete the top, then mask off the top and
>> shoot another section, like the top of the bed. Use acrylic urethane paint.
>> I use PPG concept single stage (i.e. no clear coat) It is super easy to
>> work with but with hardener, reducer and color it is expensive. To paint
>> your DC will probably take a gallon + another quart. You need three guns:
>> a cheapo ($100) to shoot primer; an expensive one ($200 and up, friend in
>> the paint business guns costs $800) to shoot color, and a detail gun (small
>> to shoot small and tight areas, about $150).
>>
>> Total cost for paint & materials to do a correct job on a bus approaches
>> $1,000 and this does not include compressor and guns.
>>
>> Water is your enemy. You need line filters for your air before it reaches
>> your gun.
>>
>> After shooting color on a section of your bus you need to color sand and
>> buff. If you use acrylic urethane paint (which you should) you can do the
>> color sanding and buffing within a short period of time after shooting the
>> paint. Overnight drying is fine and I have sanded out problem areas within a
>> couple of hours after shooting the color, acrylic urethane dries very fast.
>> The color sanding and buffing is the real secret of a smooth and slick paint
>> job. Wet sand in one direction with 2,000 grit paper then wet sand in a 90
>> degree direction with 3,000 grit, then put the buffer on it with a course
>> compound working down a couple of stages to a fine compound. It takes about
>> 40 hours of labor to color sand a bus.
>>
>> After finishing you will be well versed in why paint & body shops charge so
>> much for a good paint job.
>>
>> To experiment with your abilities start with a small piece of the bus; like
>> the engine deck lid and see what you can do from prep, primer, color, color
>> sanding & buffing.
>>
>> Watch the videos on how to shoot and read the info on the Samba threads.
>>
>> Beyond that: Call or e-mail if you have problems. Chucks pretty good,
>> Duncan painted Freedom, and I have painted a few VWs. Also, your friendly
>> local auto paint supplier is a good source of information. If you have an
>> English Color dealer in Austin they are a PPG dealer and can give you some
>> real good advice.
>>
>> From: Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
>> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:53 PM
>> Subject: [tcb] Painting tips?
>>
>> I am getting closer to the magical painting time for Sonne. I must admit
>> that I am a bit worried. I have never used a spray gun before.
>>
>> Do any of you seasoned pros have any tips you can share with me so that I am
>> prepared? It would be very appreciated!
>>
>> And a big thank you to Sammie and Noralynn for helping me find my beloved
>> stripper. Sammie, I could not find the thinner reddish brown ones at the
>> different Lowes that I tried. They only had the thick black ones. But
>> Noralynn found them at Walmart and I bought all of them.
>>
>> In case anybody cares for the future they are made by 3M. The label says:
>> Scotch-Brite Paint & Varnish Remover Contour Surface. They are 5" and go on
>> a drill.
>>
>> Julie
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