Hi Hubert I'm glad you saw the light! Don't forget to keep a supply of spare blades, 10TPI for wood, 14TPI for metal bars and 24TPI for thin sheets will see you through. I always buy my blades from Axminster, they seem to be good quality and reasonably priced. I've never worn a blade out, I usually have to change them when they start losing teeth here and there. Fitting an improved table is a good idea, and I keep meaning to do this myself when I can get around to it. I'd certainly be interested to see any pictures when you've completed your modifications. The first thing I did on mine was to fit a waterproof cover to stop coolant getting into the start/stop switch! This is just a piece of thick polythene, folded around the switch body and wired into place - simple and effective. Regards Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "shep" <shep.28@xxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 10:22 PM Subject: [modeleng] Re: boiler making >......... Thanks to the advice given by Jesse and by Ron Head, I > have replaced the discarded bulky wood-cutting bandsaw with a Chinese > version of the horizontal / vertical metal-cutting job, which is much more > compact.. Like Ron, I bought a Clarke, from our local supplier, Chronos, > who had one on special offer. Clarke must have produced the > instructions, > which are in clear English and not the usual fractured > Chinglish!.......... > > The horizontal table of the bandsaw has a groove pressed into it, to > accommodate a mitre gauge. The groove has curved edges, and is not very > accurate. > > I am making a subsidiary table to attach to the existing table, with a > proper groove that will take the mitre gauge from my splendid Delta > circular > saw. I also plan an adjustable fence, to facilitate long cuts. I will > send you pics by email when completed...................... MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST. To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to, modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject line.