UNSUBSCRIBE Tony Yeomans. Warrington. Cheshire. On Thu, 06 Nov 2003 19:53:02 -0600 Dave Harnish <drs@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote: -- Attached file included as plaintext by Ecartis -- Received: from turing.freelists.org ([206.53.239.180]) by smtp.cwctv.net with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.447.44); Fri, 7 Nov 2003 01:03:52 +0000 Received: from turing (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by turing.freelists.org (Avenir Technologies Mail Multiplex) with ESMTP id A34B5395406; Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:47:17 -0500 (EST) Received: with ECARTIS (v1.0.0; list homeclinic); Thu, 06 Nov 2003 19:47:13 -0500 (EST) X-Original-To: homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Delivered-To: homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Received: from titan.sosbbs.com (excelsior.sosbbs.com [216.37.208.31]) by turing.freelists.org (Avenir Technologies Mail Multiplex) with ESMTP id 964A2395192 for <homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:45:19 -0500 (EST) Received: from harnishd (unverified [216.108.202.127]) by titan.sosbbs.com (Vircom SMTPRS 4.5.186) with ESMTP id <B0012060438@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> for <homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Thu, 6 Nov 2003 20:01:18 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain From: Dave Harnish <drs@xxxxxxxxxx> To: homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [homeclinic] Homeclinic'ers, Here's Your DRSNews! Message-ID: <200311671582drs@xxxxxxxxxx> Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 19:53:02 -0600 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-archive-position: 224 X-ecartis-version: Ecartis v1.0.0 Sender: homeclinic-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Errors-To: homeclinic-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx X-original-sender: drs@xxxxxxxxxx Precedence: normal Reply-To: homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx X-list: homeclinic Return-Path: homeclinic-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx The DRSNews November 2003 By Subscription Only Published by Dave's Repair Service, all rights reserved You are currently subscribed with email address: ==> homeclinic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Unsubscribe instructions are at the end of this newsletter. *************************************** Hi Homeclinic'ers! In this issue: 1) 'Who Turned Off the Lights?' - Appliances and Electronics 2) Why Your Electric Dryer Runs When There's No 240V 3) Cleaning Long Dryer Vents - Fast and Easy! Before we get into the 'main' topics this month, I want to quickly add to last month's tip about lubricating retracting cord reels with car wax. Thanks to Earl Proulx for pointing out that wax also shines (sorry!) at lubing tape measures - he's right! Just clean it well, apply a light film of wax, let it dry, wipe it off, and that old tape will 'go home' like it's supposed to. 1) We encountered yet another thawing upright freezer-full of meat after a power outage this week, and I thought I'd better give you a heads-up on this one. In this case the owner had run his home generator, then noticed the dead freezer the following day, so it may have been caused by 'dirty' generator electricity. If you have one of the upright freezers with LED indicators and a temperature alarm in the door handle area, keep a close watch on it if your lights flicker or the power has been off. These are marketed primarily through Sears, but are manufactured by Frigidaire, and I assume models carrying both names are susceptible to this. A microprocessor cycles these units' compressors via a relay on a controller circuit board, and again I have to ask, uh, WHY? For the life of me I can't understand why manufacturers are determined to complicate the simplest of appliances this way. My first thought was that it must be cheaper than a simple, conventional thermostat. But now there's a thermistor, potentiometer, and processor board used, along with a lot more wiring and a 9 volt battery alarm system, so I'm not sure cost is the motivation. If any of you have any ideas about this, I'd love to hear 'em - it's getting a little crazy out there! Anyway (OK, I'm settled back down now), if you have one of these and the power comes back on but the freezer doesn't, first try unplugging it for several minutes. I've been able to reset the processor this way in a couple of instances, and it just might get you up and running. If that doesn't work, remove the 9 volt battery for a few minutes and reinstall. I haven't had as much success with this, but it's worth a try. Thirdly - and I haven't seen all the models in question, but this applies to those I have - there's a tiny reset button hidden on the circuit board. This can be carefully pushed with a small non-metallic pin, toothpick, etc. Those we've seen have a small hole in the pcboard's metal case, over the reset switch, for just this purpose. It's not easy to find, as the pcboard is mounted inside a metal case on the compressor compartment ceiling. Use a small mirror to locate this. If it won't reset, call in a pro. If it should need a controller, a tech could temporarily wire it to keep your food frozen while the board is ordered. But in every case so far, one of the above methods has succeeded in restarting the freezer. If any of you other techs have experienced this problem, we'd love to hear from you and 'compare notes'. While we're on the subject of appliances and electronics (and it's getting to be a major subject), I'd caution you about running your freezer, refrigerator, or any other motorized equipment you depend on heavily, on a GFI receptacle. These can 'nuisance trip', especially out here in the country where power isn't all that 'clean'. We've seen more than one freezer-full of beef lost to this little 'glitch', and that gets expensive! Many freezers aren't accessed every day, and by the time you discover this has happened, it may be way too late! 2) We've written a lot on the subject of the 'no-heat' dryer before, but I've neglected to mention something that we get questions about. I don't see this as much these days when most of our electrical systems use circuit breakers rather than fuses, but it still happens. If there's no 240V supply to an electric dryer, there'll be no heat but the motor can still run, and this can be confusing. The simple reason is that the motor operates on only 120V, which can still be present even when one 'leg' of the 240V goes down. Hope that clears up the confusion a bit. Sorry I wasn't clear on this in previous articles. 3) Here's a quick way to clean that long dryer vent system, again using 'Clyde' the ol' wet-vac. We carry a 30-foot central vac hose in the truck, and it's very handy for cleaning these ducts from the outside of the house. If your vent hood is the louvered type, it's a breeze. Just pop the louvers off by bending them slightly, and run that long hose in with Clyde and the dryer both running. This will do a thorough job in very little time. If you have a central vac system installed in your house, you already have the hose. If you can connect it to the wet-vac hose temporarily, it'll work great. Just take care with the hose ends, and don't use the central vac itself for this job. This can move a pile of lint, and the place for a clog is NOT inside your wall! By the way, if your long exhaust system is run in flexible plastic, please replace it with 4 inch smooth wall aluminum as soon as possible. You'll save electricity in the long haul, and you and I will both sleep better. *** Thanks again, Homeclinic'ers, for allowing me into your inbox this month. I hope you benefit from this little project half as much as I enjoy writing it for you. What great friends we're making through this cool medium! Thanks for all your encouragement - I really appreciate it! May the Lord richly bless you & yours, and may He continue to have Mercy on America. Sincerely, Dave Harnish Dave's Repair Service New Albany, PA drs@xxxxxxxxxx (570) 363-2404 'One conversation across a table from a wise man is worth a month's study of books.' 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