Hi John,
Unless there’s evidence of metal fatigue ( bulges, cracks) those brakes should
be OK.
If necessary reline the bores ( see White Post Restorations). On two of my
Airhearts, the threaded holes didn’t look good, so an ace machinist friend put
them in his Bridgeport and drilled and tapped them for Helicoils. Worked
perfectly and raced them hard for years.
I’m sure you have experience, but here are some suggestions based on my 30+
years of racing. Lay out your brake lines (tubing) carefully and used Avdel or
rubber-lined clamps or pieces of neoprene to avoid any metal-to-metal contact.
Hoses- I always used SS braided, Teflon-lined flex hoses-they are strong and
don’t bulge under pressure. If you have the same size brakes and same rotor
diameter front and back, use a balance bar to bias your braking so the fronts
lock up before the rears to maintain directional stability. Very important
when it rains! Oh yeah, when it rained, I disconnected my rear sway bar to
reduce rear roll stiffness.
I found after adjusting brake balance bar, I changed to a 5/8” dia. front
master cylinder and a 3/4” dia. rear master cylinder, and then was able to.
almost center-up the brake balance bar.
DON’T use silicone brake fluid. It’s safe for paint on collector cars, but
quite compressible resulting in a “long” pedal in your racing. Don’t ask me
how I know! I used Ford heavy—duty truck brake fluid for years. It has high
boiling point, not compressible and performs like those expensive exotic
fluids, and is compatible with brake seals and o- rings. Get it at the local
Ford dealer. I apologize if I am repeating stuff you already know, but I found
that more prep-time back in the garage meant more fun-time on the track. I
raced H-Mod and then DSR for years, was DSR class champ in the Midwest Council
in 1984 and had a lot of fun racing, so I did a something right.
I hope that you have a great time racing, too. By the way, if you want to see
my old Quasar, I think it’s still on the web- Google: Mike Boyajian. DSR For
Sale
Enjoy!
Mike Boyajian
On May 17, 2022, at 1:41 PM, J Feng <xkfeng7@xxxxxxxxx> wro
Thanks for the info and suggestions.
While a 175x1 is probably adequate in the rear for an SR3of this Beach from
30 years ago clearly show 175x2’s on the rear. The original literature
suggests same sized brakes fire and aft. So, 175x2’s in the rear is original
as far as I know.
On a whim I searched Facebook and found a fellow with a good selection of old
airheart calipers, including a 175x2 and 175x1’s. But they are pretty
expensive, similar to brand new new Girling calipers BEFORE factoring in
resleeve/rebuild costs.
Finally, Ron Mong mentioned to me that using old and unknown brake calipers
is not always the smart choice on a race car. He is a professional so I have
a request into SVRA to see if they will allow a new vintage style Girling
caliper with the same pad area.
How many of you are racing on 50 year old brake calipers?
John
J Feng
On May 17, 2022, at 11:12 AM, Tom Taff <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
John, Just as Mike suggested, Speedway has pads listed in their catalog.
On May 16, 2022, at 9:59 PM, Myron Boyajian ("mboyajian")Hi John,
<dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
175X2 Airhearts were used on the front of my Bobsy (clone) and my Quasar
back in the day. Airheart 175X1s were used in back. Airhearts were used
a l
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