[rollei_list] Re: New to the list
- From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 14:21:48 -0400
At 02:03 PM 7/22/2010, Richard Knoppow wrote:
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "CheshireCCat" <cheshireccat@xxxxxxxxx>
>To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 9:33 AM
>Subject: [rollei_list] New to the list
>
>
>> Long time viewer and first time poster. Had a rollei 3.5 E
>> for a couple months
>> now. I've taken a dozen rolls and haven't developed a
>> single one yet. Nowhere
>> around here to develop 120 and it's been a very long time
>> since my photography
>> classes in high school and college. I picked up my camera
>> off of ebay for $400
>> which I don't think is a terrible price and the seller
>> claimed that it had a
>> recent CLA in a place in Florida. (don't have the camera
>> with me this minute so
>> I can't say where exactly. So I'm still not sure how well
>> it works. But it's fun
>> to take pictures. I've talked to a few people and I have
>> been getting sent from
>> one place to another to have the meter repaired. The
>> needle just bounces around
>> and doesn't care what kind of light there is. I would like
>> to find a place to
>> get this meter fixed or replaced. I see meters n ebay
>> occasionally, but they are
>> all for 3.5F and from what I understand, they will not
>> work together. I have
>> heard that the meters are notoriously unreliable, but I
>> would just like
>> everything to work right off the bat, so if anyone has any
>> ideas where I can get
>> the meter repaired or replaced, I'm all ears.
>>
>> J.D.
>>
> I haven't searched around for used darkroom equipment
>lately but not long ago it was going for a song and easy to
>find. You need very little to develop roll film, even color.
>A bit more for contact printing (practical for 2-1/4 X
>2-1/4) and more for enlarging.
> For developing B&W roll film you need:
>A tank, I recommend the stainless steel kind or any tank
>that is agitated by inverting it.
>A pair of film clips, spring clothes pins will do.
>A funnel (from the grocery, to pour solutions back into the
>bottles)
>Some bottles (plastic ones will do, use high density
>plastic).
>Packaged developer (D-76 is always reliable but Xtol gives
>somewhat better performance).
>Stop bath (distilled vinegar diluted to half strength will
>do).
>Fixer, you can use rapid fixer, which comes as a liquid
>concentrate, or Kodak fixer, which is a powder. The powder
>fixer takes about twice as long to fix. Fixer should really
>be done in two successive baths but more on that later.
>A wash aid, you don't really need this but it cuts wash time
>from half an hour to five minutes.
>Washing can be done by just putting the tank under a running
>faucet but its better if you have a length of hose to stick
>into the center of the tank.
>Wetting agent like Kodak Photo-Flo, this is used as a final
>rinse to eliminate water spots. A better wetting agent can
>be made by mixing the Photo-Flo with rubbing alcohol (NOT
>the kind with flavorings like Oil of Wintergreen in it) as
>follows:
>To one liter of water add one ounce of 70% rubbing alcohol
>and half a cap (2.5ml) of Photo-Flow. Soak the washed film
>in this for two minutes and hang up to dry without
>squeegeeing.
>You need a dry, clean place to dry the film.
>If you don't have a dark place to load the tanks you need a
>changing bag, they are not expensive. For temporary use one
>can even use a heavy overcoat by wrapping it around and
>sticking your arms through the sleeves. In fact, thats how
>changing bags originated.
> Lets see what else? A good thermometer and some sort of
>timer preferably with a sweep second hand although a digital
>timer that counts seconds is OK. A watch will do although a
>settable timer is a convenience. That's all. Put the film in
>the tank, pour in the developer, agitate as directed and
>develop as in the charts for the particular film. Follow the
>instructions and you will get good, printable negatives.
> Depending on how good a shopper you are we are talking
>about maybe $20 to $50 not counting chemicals.
> If you decide to undertake this folks on this list can
>help with any problems or questions you have.
>
>--
>Richard Knoppow
>Los Angeles, CA, USA
>dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>---
>Rollei List
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