Yep, I have to agree with that. Living in South Cal. is a bear on contrast control. If onbe has to be there to explain the image, for quality or content, then that image has failed. A successful print is a stand alone print. Unless it's an essay, and even then....
Slobodan Dimitrov http://www.sdimitrovphoto.com/ On Dec 6, 2006, at 9:49 AM, Jim Brick wrote:
At 07:33 PM 12/5/2006 -0300, Carlos Manuel Freaza wrote:but the things were blue that afternoon really.- CarlosCarlos,As a photographer, you have to realize that the people looking at your photographs were not/are not at the place and time that the photograph was made. People are simply looking at your photographic result. You cannot, therefore, always exhibit photographs in the same 'light' that they were taken. While in a situation, such as deep shade, one's brain does a marvelous job of correcting colors and densities so that things look reasonably normal. Take a photograph under these circumstances, using color film, will result in photographs with a bluish cast. When you look at the resulting photographs, your brain may see it as you took it. Show it to some who was not there, thus having no frame of reference, that person will say "the photographs are way too blue."Take photographs of sunrises, sunsets, night street scenes, interiors, people have -in their mind- what color these photographs should be and therefore everything is pretty much OK.Your originals are way too blue Carlos. Correction is absolutely necessary before showing your Ford motor photographs to people other than yourself. Slobodan is correct.Eighty percent of my photography is color transparency. And nearly 100% of that I print on Cibachrome. Living on the coast of California, much of my photography is along the ocean (many times overcast or foggy) and in the deep redwood forest. Often very cool in color temperature. Rather than correcting in my enlarger, I correct on the film by using filters ranging from KR1.5 to KR6. I also teach photography (one-on-one private students and workshops) therefore the transparencies that I project must be corrected.I started serious photography in 1950. My first 'real' camera was a Rolleicord III (I now know that thanks to you Carlos.) Ektachrome was the E3 process then and I processed all of my Ektachrome in our home kitchen sink. Talk about blue... living along the CA coast and photographing with Ektachrome. I learned early how to warm-up my in- camera originals with filters. I tried all of the Wratten warming filters and found that I like the KR... series much better.IMHO, :-) Jim --- Rollei List - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx- Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org- Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org- Online, searchable archives are available at //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list
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