I have never processed C41. I have done quite a bit of RA4 printing and got pretty good after wasting a bunch of paper learning how. I have a Jobo ATL-2 processor which makes it easy to get good consistent prints. I can do up to 16x20 with the tanks that I have. I have not used the processor in quite some time. My workload at my regular job got to be such that I just don't have the time to spend on this that I used to... I could easily use the Jobo for C41 and RA4. If only I had the time. Speedy From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Thinking of moving back to film Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 12:49:09 -0700 I have done color processing many years ago. I never was any good at all at color printing. Did ok souping the film, was much better though letting others do the color printing. Tried the RA 4 AT but it cost more than just sending it out. Much of what I would likely do now would be to send it to digital. Much better there, but if your temp varies by much when you ran the film, you still had problems. I never had a processor though. I had to maintain temp with a water bath, a fish tank heater, and an fish tank air pump to move the water around to keep the temp more consistent. It worked, but it was never going to be a high volume operation that way:-) When I figured the costs, it was no cheaper and printing was actually much more expensive for me to do it myself than have it done. At $12 a sheet that cost picture changes. Even the film wasn't a huge cost savings. The cost of the chemistry was enough, that though a good skill to learn and I believe it made me a better photographer, it was better to let someone with a processor that could do much better with temp control than I could using a fish tank heater and pump. If I go that route though, it wouldn't take long to justify a jobo at $12 a sheet. It also means upgrading my scanner, and buying lenses and shutters that cost far more. The other downside, and I know some here will poo poo this and that's ok, is that no zooms for large format. Every time I am forced to use a prime lens, I get lucky. Trouble is its all bad. Right were I need to set up the camera for the lens I have is just not possible. Something is already there that is in the way. Some one is taking up the space or a barrier there. I back up till I am almost far enough back, and then my back ends up in a barbed wire fence. Anyone that uses primes knows the feeling. It still happens with zooms, but there are more options. Half the time when I want to set up a tripod, there is something on the ground that makes it difficult. From big rocks to mud, to steep hills and sand, I always seem to manage to find the one spot within 10 acres that a tripod just does not want to safely stand upright with its load. Never forget that any time a gust of wind can come along and blow over your expensive gear and smash it into a million little pieces, Photographer Murphy is always happy to oblige and send you shopping for more gear. Sad thing is I wouldn't be doing any of this if Adobe had not tried to milk me for the nickel too far. Then again, getting back to film will be fun too. I will just put what I would have spent in a Photoshop subscription into film. -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Thinking of moving back to film From: "K W Hart" <kwhart1@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Fri, June 28, 2013 1:31 pm To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Color processing (C-41) is not difficult or expensive. For roll film (35mm or 120), I use a common roll film tank. Depending on how many rolls I have to develope, I use either metal or plastic. For the few times I've developed sheet film, I use an old Unicolor print drum that will handle 1-8x10 or 2-5x7 or 4-4x5 sheets. It specs 2 ounces of chems, but I usually use about 8 ounces. As for chem life, the developer is the big issue. I use Trebla brand chems from CPAC. I buy the smallest quantity kit, and mix the three parts using syringes to get the developer replenisher. Then I add the starter to get the working solution. (Note: I use a different syringe for each chem concentrate to avoid any contamination.) Once mixed, the developer might have a one week shelf life, but the concentrates last a year or more on the shelf. I usually mix 16 ounces or more at a time. Developing C-41 is not difficult if you can maintain a consistent time/temp. I've found a 2:00 pre-soak in water at 100F to be very important. Ken Hart kwhart1@xxxxxxxxxxxx ----- Original Message ----- From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 10:54 AM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Thinking of moving back to film Black and white I can do myself. Only found one place in my area that can do 4x5 color, and that's at $12 a sheet. Is that typical to where everyone else is or is that because they are really the only game in town I've found. I don't like my negatives to be shipped. Got some lost once that showed up almost a year later. Surprised after a while they ever showed up, but overly ticked off they still made me pay or they were going to toss them. -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Thinking of moving back to film From: Charlie Thorsten <charlie_thorsten@xxxxxxxxx> Date: Thu, June 27, 2013 9:50 pm To: "pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> I can second that recommendation for North Coast Photographics. They develop my 4x5 B&W negatives for $3.00 a sheet and they do a great job. Everything is dip & dunk, nitrogen burst agitation, professional processing. Last time I asked they were using Xtol for their developer. -Charlie From: "Grif" w. keith griffith" <kgriffit@xxxxxxxxxxxx> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 11:57 AM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Thinking of moving back to film http://www.northcoastphoto.com/ recommended by Ken Rockwell I've had a lot of stuff (well,,, lots for me) done by them. They have a process and scan economy service that does everything I need. ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. No virus found in this message. 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