[pure-silver] Re: Old Faithful has a problem

  • From: johnfrost <johnfrostnew2006@xxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 13:06:38 -0700

it may be best to use a strip of friction tape around the barrel. I use it under all of my quick release plates, and the cameras never swivel after a strip of that stuff in added.....

I also use it under the pipe wraps on the tripod legs. Been on them for neigh onto 20 years, and they don't twist, turn, wiggle, woggle, slip, or slide

john (:>))) bubbling in Bothell....

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:35:15 -0700
From: Laurence Cuffe <cuffe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Old Faithful has a problem

 
On Monday, March 10, 2008, at 02:24PM, "Mark Blackwell" <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>A couple of really good ideas here.  The silicon adhesive caulk is a good idea.  So is the weatherstrip adhesive.  The biggest worry is it not sticking to the existing glue which just might not be that tough to get off, but then again it may be impossible especially from the rubber.
  
I'd be a little careful of using the silicon caulk as some forms of it release acetic acid as part of the setting process, and as we all know acetic acid is quite good at eating into things.
All the best
Laurence cuffe
>
>I have never had much luck with anything sticking once two glues were mixed.  I was hoping someone knew what Canon used.
>
>Another idea that came to me was model airplane glue.
>
>mail1 <mail1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 3M Super weatherstrip Adhesive part#051135 08001, found in an Auto Parts
>Store, is designed to glue rubber to metal or painted surfaces. Clean both
>surfaces with a solvent before applying cement. You do not need to abrade
>painted or metal surfaces. If the rubber has a mold release on its surface
>abrading will remove it. Apply sparingly as clean up can be a problem. Read
>instructions.
>Jonathan Ayers  [mail1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>

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