[amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....
- From: "Cheryl Rotter" <tsiemb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 13:36:00 -0800
My biggest problem is needle breaks. It must be a hooping issue, but I
am so new that I don't even know where to look for hooping problems.
Some of the folks here on the list have indicated some of my breaks
might come from trying to sew a design too large on a cap and moving the
design too close to the bill.
I have been trying the experiments. I sometimes don't use the bill clip
and that seems to help some designs but not others.
I don't have the benefit of trying to sell a cap that sews nicely. Our 3
salesmen often sell what the customer wants or something they can get a
good price on for the customer.
Cheryl Rotter
Team Sports Ink
5111 Grumann Dr. Ste #1B
Carson City, NV 89706
775-884-3550
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Body Cover
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 11:58 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....
On the subject of caps and there problems, I would be interested
to clarify what the major problem is with those of us that have the
problems?
Myself, the only real problem we run into now that we have gotten
more practice, is that the design sinks into the cap at the center seam
section and doesn't present uniform coverage everywhere if we
up the material thickness to compensate. hooping is a big difference
for sure but since the center seam is 3 to 4 layers thick depending on
the
cap
we can't always get consistent looks with out standing
there watching and raising thickness up and down as it sews in those
areas.
Mind you, this isn't on all caps and once I decided I wasn't going to
let
caps
get to me we have done a lot better,
Good investment a couple dozen hats in the style you use the most and
practice!!
for the price of $20 to $30 bucks you have no idea how much knowledge
you
gain.
try different hooping methods (with clips, w/o them take off the wings
etc.)
but try something you wouldn't try on a paying job! lower the speed
raise
the speed
adjust presser foot height, just keep track of what you changed and the
settings used
also make sure all samples use the same design.
maybe someone on the list has a design that was designed for hats that
sews
great
and might share for sample ideas.
you get my picture, if we never try because we've only had bad results
then we need to jump in with both feet and figure out the problem.
because the one thing this list has taught me is that there are people
out there with my exact machine that make hats work on a daily basis,
So now I know it can be done, I just have to find the way for me to make
it work, and I'm getting closer everyday....
remember to read the thoughts in full, a few members like Aaron,
have gotten good results with Amaya on hats but prefer to use
other machines that keep the results more consistent.
One more thing is on a trip to Richardson Cap we got to see their
production facility and it was amazing to say the least, at the time
they
had
close to 200 heads of hats running and had plans to add another 100 or
so
soon, one thing I noticed is that they steam their hats before hooping.
This softens the hat and makes it more pliable.
I don't have their professional hat blocking steamers but
a $50 pro steamer I bought at big lots that heats up in less than a
minute
really helps in hooping some of those stiff front pro style hats
and they sew better also until the get cool again,
I just let the steam flow into the hat from the inside back of the
face of them for around 30 to 60 seconds and it makes quite a
difference.
careful steam burns! Another great thing was that it is amazing how well
this same steamer takes out hoop marks! Flats are looking better than
ever.
Just wanted to pass that along.
So, what is it that every one has problems with on the hats, hooping,
consistency,
needle breaks, flagging, misregistration? what?
Write back and tell us all!
Ron Vinyard
Body Cover / Magic Stitches
1-888-435-0176
420 SW H street
Grants Pass, OR 97526
info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.bodycoverdesign.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linen Barn" <linen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 2:48 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....
>I use the conventional frames 90% of the time unless I am sewing bucket
>caps
> or caps with a real wide design (4.5" or wider). They hoop much
faster
> and
> I feel my caps sew better on these frames.
>
>
> Aaron Sargent
> The Linen Barn
> linen@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Medford, Oregon
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Yaglenski" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Amaya Users" <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 1:18 PM
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....
>
>
>> So do most use the conventional cap frame on the list? If we are
>> ordering
>> one, should I buy from melco or are there other suppliers to choose
from.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> On 3/26/05 2:58 PM, "Janel Harris" <janel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Caps in general are more difficult because you're working with a
curved
>> > surface. All of the suggestions about good digitizing, design size,
>> > hooping etc are more important than brand of machine. I also agree
with
>> > Rod about the Conventional Cap Frame. They are easier to operate
and it
>> > frames the cap tighter across the needleplate. I personally would
shelf
>> > the WACF for wide designs only and run CCF for everyday use.
>> >
>> > Janel Harris
>> > Dimensional Designs
>> > http://www.dimdesigns.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Other related posts:
