[amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....

Cheryl,
When I hoop a cap, after I get it in the hoop but before I lock the band in 
place I will rub the face of it while pulling down on the back of the cap. 
As you do this you can feel the cap kind of relaxing onto the hoop. It helps 
me to get the face of the cap down as far as I can on the needle plate. If 
it is a structured cap I don't use the clips to hold the sides. If it has a 
design on the side I put a stop in the color sequence and clip the side to 
sew at that time. I also take the bill of the cap and straighten it out 
(take the curve out of it) and bend it back towards the front of the cap a 
bit before I hoop it. This helps the lower portion of the cap near the bill 
to lay flatter against the needle plate. Food for thought.

Herb
Royal Embroidery
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cheryl Rotter" <tsiemb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 1:36 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....


> My biggest problem is needle breaks.  It must be a hooping issue, but I
> am so new that I don't even know where to look for hooping problems.
> Some of the folks here on the list have indicated some of my breaks
> might come from trying to sew a design too large on a cap and moving the
> design too close to the bill.
> I have been trying the experiments. I sometimes don't use the bill clip
> and that seems to help some designs but not others.
>
> I don't have the benefit of trying to sell a cap that sews nicely. Our 3
> salesmen often sell what the customer wants or something they can get a
> good price on for the customer.
>
> Cheryl Rotter
> Team Sports Ink
> 5111 Grumann Dr. Ste #1B
> Carson City, NV 89706
> 775-884-3550
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Body Cover
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 11:58 AM
> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....
>
> On the subject of caps and there problems, I would be interested
> to clarify what the major problem is with those of us that have the
> problems?
>
> Myself, the only real problem we run into now that we have gotten
> more practice, is that the design sinks into the cap at the center seam
> section and doesn't present uniform coverage everywhere if we
> up the material thickness to compensate. hooping is a big difference
> for sure but since the center seam is 3 to 4 layers thick depending on
> the
> cap
> we can't always get consistent looks with out standing
> there watching and raising thickness up and down as it sews in those
> areas.
>
> Mind you, this isn't on all caps and once I decided I wasn't going to
> let
> caps
> get to me we have done a lot better,
> Good investment a couple dozen hats in the style you use the most and
> practice!!
> for the price of $20 to $30 bucks you have no idea how much knowledge
> you
> gain.
> try different hooping methods (with clips, w/o them take off the wings
> etc.)
> but try something you wouldn't try on a paying job! lower the speed
> raise
> the speed
> adjust presser foot height, just keep track of what you changed and the
> settings used
> also make sure all samples use the same design.
> maybe someone on the list has a design that was designed for hats that
> sews
> great
> and might share for sample ideas.
> you get my picture, if we never try because we've only had bad results
> then we need to jump in with both feet and figure out the problem.
> because the one thing this list has taught me is that there are people
> out there with my exact machine that make hats work on a daily basis,
> So now I know it can be done, I just have to find the way for me to make
> it work, and I'm getting closer everyday....
> remember to read the thoughts in full, a few members like Aaron,
> have gotten good results with Amaya on hats but prefer to use
> other machines that keep the results more consistent.
>
> One more thing is on a trip to Richardson Cap we got to see their
> production facility and it was amazing to say the least, at the time
> they
> had
> close to 200 heads of hats running and had plans to add another 100 or
> so
> soon, one thing I noticed is that they steam their hats before hooping.
> This softens the hat and makes it more pliable.
> I don't have their professional hat blocking steamers but
> a $50 pro steamer I bought at big lots that heats up in less than a
> minute
> really helps in hooping some of those stiff front pro style hats
> and they sew better also until the get cool again,
> I just let the steam flow into the hat from the inside back of the
> face of them for around 30 to 60 seconds and it makes quite a
> difference.
> careful steam burns! Another great thing was that it is amazing how well
> this same steamer takes out hoop marks! Flats are looking better than
> ever.
>
> Just wanted to pass that along.
> So, what is it that every one has problems with on the hats, hooping,
> consistency,
> needle breaks, flagging, misregistration? what?
> Write back and tell us all!
> Ron Vinyard
> Body Cover / Magic Stitches
> 1-888-435-0176
>
> 420 SW H street
> Grants Pass, OR 97526
>
> info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> www.bodycoverdesign.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Linen Barn" <linen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 2:48 PM
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....
>
>
>>I use the conventional frames 90% of the time unless I am sewing bucket
>
>>caps
>> or caps with a real wide design (4.5" or wider).  They hoop much
> faster
>> and
>> I feel my caps sew better on these frames.
>>
>>
>> Aaron Sargent
>> The Linen Barn
>> linen@xxxxxxxxxxx
>> Medford, Oregon
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "John Yaglenski" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: "Amaya Users" <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 1:18 PM
>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Hats - Caps - WACF etc....
>>
>>
>>> So do most use the conventional cap frame on the list?  If we are
>>> ordering
>>> one, should I buy from melco or are there other suppliers to choose
> from.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/26/05 2:58 PM, "Janel Harris" <janel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>> > Caps in general are more difficult because you're working with a
> curved
>>> > surface. All of the suggestions about good digitizing, design size,
>>> > hooping etc are more important than brand of machine. I also agree
> with
>>> > Rod about the Conventional Cap Frame. They are easier to operate
> and it
>>> > frames the cap tighter across the needleplate. I personally would
> shelf
>>> > the WACF for wide designs only and run CCF for everyday use.
>>> >
>>> > Janel Harris
>>> > Dimensional Designs
>>> > http://www.dimdesigns.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

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