(VICT) Re: Need you guys opinion
- From: "Diane & Raven" <dlshotwell2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <vi-clicker-trainers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 17:44:13 -0400
Sandy, how long has he been with you?
this could be an issue from his past... what is his age?
You might consider working with a professional who deals with these kinds of
issues.
I always set the dogs up for success in all behavior teaching, especially and
including guarding. start out far apart and move slowly closer together with
great care and planning. You want to avoid any guarding. each time the need
to guard is exercised by the dog and is successful it will condition and
reinforce the unwanted behavior. You need to build the wanted behavior to a
greater level than the unwanted behavior. This way you condition the wanted
behavior. This unwanted guarding behavior may have already been practiced and
worked for your dog 100's of times. so you need to condition the wanted
behavior or "no need to guard" at least that many times and surpass that number
until you are confident that the dog does not guard any more.
I supervise, manage and be prepared to control 100% with a guarder. it is a
trigger you are aware of now.
This is my method... you said that you can touch and take away his food without
issue ... do this with care.
so I will take your word and not address that issue... but may I add that I
find that dogs who have a true guarding issue will be prone to guarding other
things and may develop other guarding issues, so careful supervision and
keeping this in mind when planning all teaching, including separation teaching
and group events, children etc..
Depending on the severity and how well I know and control the dog in
question....
I would sit on the floor or a bed with the two dogs, one on each side of me...
out of reach of each other.
I would start with a VERY LOW value item (food or toys) and begin sharing
starting with the dog that does not guard.
so I would give a treat to the one dog and in a calm and controlled manner give
a treat to the other dog.
if using a toy for this exercise, I would give the toy to one dog and than take
that toy and give it to the other dog and do that back and forth for a few
minutes, Marking and rewarding the wanted behavior and calm. If all is calm
and sociable I would reward both dogs high value generously. (you can use a
clicker for this and reward with treat each time the toy is taken and given
calmly)
be a good student of body language before doing any work with a dog that
guards. (staring, stiffness, lowered head, licking of the lips, eyes, ears,
etc.....) this is an aggressive behavior and should not be taken lightly.
I would not put the bowls down for the dogs to eat. It is only humans who
decided that is the way to feed. With a guarder I feed by hand with the other
dogs. and this can be done one of two ways... dropping food into each dogs
bowl one at a time or handing it to each dog one at a time. Being sure a safe
distance is between each dog and dog bowl and that I have a method of control
if an unwanted behavior should occur.
I usually start with the hand feeding one at a time in succession and when that
is going well and the dog is beginning to trust .... I will put the dishes a
safe distance apart and drop the food into each dish in succession for the
meals. If this goes well I will move the dishes a bit closer ... but I do not
put them next to each other )within 2 feet) and I do not feed together
unsupervised.
this is a behavior training and great care in planning and research and method
must be applied.
The severity must be considered. Only you can judge I can not see.
Punishing may actually increase the unwanted behavior...
why?
Because aggression is stress based and fear based. to punish will increase
both stress and fear in the dog that is displaying the unwanted guarding
behavior.
I have known some who use a see through gate/fencing when using the method
above to protect the other dog or the human.
Do you have a arm and hand on a stick? You can make one with and old glove and
a sleeve and put it on a broom handle.
The one I use is an old Halloween
prop,http://www.cal.net/~pamgreen/feeder_hand.html but you can buy the
professional models on the internet. Sue Sternberg fake hand but it cost a
bit.... http://www.greatdogproductions.com/cgi-bin/cart.pl?DT=3
that is just one place you can buy a Sue Sternberg "Assess-a-Hand" there are
others... I would shop for the best price.
This is my opinion and one of the ways I have worked with mild guarding.
Keep in mind also that it often takes months for a dog to acclimate to new
surrounding and trust in the environment and creatures there.
Good luck... I wish you great success.
Best Wishes & Wags,
Diane & Raven
APDT#72225
http://AssistanceDogJournal.net
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Golden_Paw_ADC/
"My Assistance Dog is not my whole life, but she makes my life
whole"~D.L.Shotwell
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