[python] AW: Re: Pythonjetrike

  • From: Gerald<bepb@xxxxxx>
  • To: python@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 08:29:14 +0200

Hi, 
I am not (get) into tilting trikes, but I would suggest to consider a lever 
instead. Something like in the picture.

Also, I would consider not to use knots but to sew the required loops.

Br
Gerald 

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Ronald Hongsermeier <rwhongser@xxxxxx>
An: python@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Gesendet: Di., 20. Sep 2011, 03:05:43 GMT+00:00
Betreff: [python] Re: Pythonjetrike

My two cents on this one is to use flat parachute chord and backpack type 
adjustment. Run the chord through appropriated sized and deburred slots instead 
of bending a chord around a bolt. The point load on the round chord is very 
high unless you go to a larger bolt cross-section.

regards,
Ron


On 20.09.2011 04:38, UH-13P wrote:
> Have you considered wire rope witha thimble end at the attachment > point?  
> It is low cost and easily obtainable at hardware stores.  > Another option 
> would be hardened steel wire such as clothes line wire > or the wire used in 
> vineyards for trellis construction.
>
> *From:* Patrick van Gompel <patrick_van_gompel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> *To:* python@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> *Sent:* Monday, September 19, 2011 2:56 PM
> *Subject:* [python] Re: Pythonjetrike
>
> Thanks guys for the tips and help!
> Jaculus, can you please clearify so I am sure I understand it > correctly. 
> Are you saying that when I put a line around a bolt whitout > a knot or 
> anything and I hold both ends, that I can't multiply the > line strenght by 
> two? Of course the bolt does give some friction, but > aren't the forces on 
> both ends roughly the same? Isn't that how > pulleys work? If you pull one 
> end, the other end will move and have > the same force to it, or am I 
> completely wrong here?
> Is a M6 bolt to sharp a bend for a 3 or 7mm thick rope? Please advice.
>
> Yes, as you can see in the pictures, the safety line goes through a > hole in 
> the tube and is of course sharp. But the primary line goes > over a 
> unthreaded bolt part, otherwise I would indeed have much more > wear. Wear on 
> the piece of string around the bolts was not the reason > for snapping.
> Of course 150kg is about 1500N. But kg is what they use for kitelines, > and 
> probably Newton is for climbing ropes (donno why though). I used > kiting 
> knots for attaching both ends, so that the lenght was easy to > adjust. Don't 
> know what they are called, but it looks a bit like your > example: Clove 
> hitch combined with a figure of eight knot on the lose > end. Though, it was 
> the end knot that snapped off. The safety line was > of course snapped at the 
> sharp edge of the metal.
> Now I use a /Square or Reef Knot/ for joining the line ends. Is this a > good 
> knot or can I better use your suggested Double fishermans knot? > The latter 
> seems more complicated and harder to adjust, but if it > gives more 
> strenght...
>
> Henry, I checked your dimensions for the swing arm again. Mine are a > bit 
> larger, but I have about the same relation: 1:3 for the arms > (about 30cm 
> for pivot point to axle and 10cm for pivot point to the > link connection 
> point). So 10kg load on the wheel will be 30 kg load > on the link going to 
> the rockerarm. Not sure why I have problems with > this connection and you 
> don't. My M6 economy rod ends where worn out > very quickly (without using 
> the trailer). My double M8 rod ends on the > rocker arm have signs of wear 
> too and the 15x15x1mm square tube is > deformed by the pulling load. I did 
> buy new M8 PTFE rod ends for the > links and M10 for the rocker arm, but I 
> haven't installed them because > I was testing the strings. But I am in doubt 
> now whether they are > strong enough. This M8 PTFE rod end has a 5.85kN 
> dynamic load rating > which is only about double the amount of my worn out M6 
> rod ends.
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Patrick
>
>
> > Subject: [python] Re: (No From: Jaculus <jaculusbent@xxxxxxxxx>
> > To: python@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 04:32:05 -0400
> > From: python-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > Being a bit into rope climbing I see some design flaws in your rope > set 
> > up.
> >
> > First of all your rope goes over some pretty sharp metal edges, and a
> > threaded bolt. Both of these increase wear and tear a lot (especialy
> > when there is a lot of movement on those spots as I assume there is,
> > judging from the photo’s).
> >
> > Then there is the issue of weakening a rope with knots and alike. As a
> > rule of thumb you can say the tighter the bend of the rope in a knot
> > is the more it weakens the rope. This does also apply for places where
> > the is no knot, but only a bend or an angle, like at the metal edges
> > in your pictures.
> >
> > An other point, two "150 kg lines" (I suppose you mean two 1500 N
> > lines) do not ad up to a "300 kg connection" it will still be a "150
> > kg connection", because the changing loads will be on just 1 of the
> > two lines in certain moments.
> >
> > Then the knot used: please keep it simple, improvising in knots rarely
> > ever helps. There are plenty of good knots, but to avoiid confusion
> > stick to simple ones. I would advise you to keep to the following 4
> > knots:
> > - (Double)figure of eight knot. (to thicken rope or make loops at the
> > end of rope)
> > - Alpine butterfly. (for loops in the middle of rope)
> > - Double fishermans knot. (to join two ropes)
> > - Clove hitch combined with a figure of eight knot on the lose end.
> > (to attach rope to a piece of wood/metal etc.)
> > Never have a knot in another knot or in a bend of the rope. And
> > remember the rule: Keep It Simple Stupid!
> >
> > Jaculus
> >
> >
> > 2011/9/19 dirk@xxxxxxxxxx <dirk@xxxxxxxxxx>:
> > > Hi Patrick,
> > >
> > > unfortunately, i don't have a link i can point to, but paragliders > have 
> > > the
> > > "knot issue" as well. There are certains knots that introduce far > less 
> > > strain
> > > into the strings than others do. Some can be reopened while others > 
> > > cannot.
> > >
> > > Greetings,
> > > DirkS
> > >
> > >
> > > Patrick van Gompel <patrick_van_gompel@xxxxxxxxxxx> hat am 18. > 
> > > September 2011 um
> > > 17:44 geschrieben:
> > >
> > >>
> > >> Wow Henry, that looks like a nasty slide...
> > >>
> > >> I did cycle quite a bit the last few days and although everything > 
> > >> seemed to go
> > >> fine, I must warn people for the big loads going from swing arm > to 
> > >> rocker arm
> > >> for the jetrike. Today I snapped a double 150kg line! I did have > the 
> > >> trailer
> > >> behind the trike, but it was only loaded for maybe 50kg and not > really 
> > >> pushing
> > >> much on the hook (balanced trailer). I drove into a hole on a > dirt road
> > >> followed by a bump and the primary line and the safety line of > the 
> > >> left side
> > >> snapped. The rear hit the ground and dug into the dirt. The bike > is ok 
> > >> and so
> > >> am I, but I am glad that this didn't happen on the road with > traffic 
> > >> behind
> > >> me. So, a 300kg strong link between rocker arm and swing arm is > not 
> > >> enough for
> > >> my setup. I think I need to go at least twice as high, but > preferably 
> > >> up to 1
> > >> ton for safety margin. If I were to use quality rod ends, that > would 
> > >> mean M12
> > >> for size. This size rod ends are quite big and heavy (I use them > for 
> > >> the pivot
> > >> point) and wouldn't like them for the links. I need to find some > 500kg
> > >> strings.... I might try some 5mm hunting rope. Polypropylene is > not as 
> > >> good as
> > >> dyneema, but 5mm is quite a bit thicker than I have now.
> > >>
> > >> Anyway, before things broke down, I had a great 75km cycling > trip. 
> > >> First, the
> > >> lines seemed to be damaged a bit by the nut when the rocker arm > 
> > >> turned. I
> > >> fixed this provisionally with a loop under the attached line > around 
> > >> the bolt.
> > >> See: http://cycle.free-creativity.com/images/string_rockerarm.jpg > This 
> > >> seemed
> > >> to work fine.
> > >> The other end was durable enough and I left it the way it was:
> > >> http://cycle.free-creativity.com/images/string_swingarm.jpg
> > >> That setup was nearly wear free for 150km. So I think that > pulleys or 
> > >> the like
> > >> are not really needed. A simple bolt will do.
> > >> Last Friday I went for a garden job with the trailer (2x20km > trip). 
> > >> Including
> > >> my garden tools the trailer weighs about 50kg and the trike > seemed to 
> > >> benefit
> > >> from the extra load on the hook/rear. Though, the ride felt a bit > more 
> > >> bumpy.
> > >> Handling was excellent, but a bit slower than without trailer. > Going 
> > >> to the
> > >> dump site with garden waste of a total of about 100kg, the trike > was 
> > >> still
> > >> stable and ok to handle, but tight cornering needed more leaning > it 
> > >> seemed.
> > >> Braking with this load with only having a front brake, still felt > 
> > >> safe. At
> > >> least, a test by pulling hard on the brake didn't do weird things to
> > >> steering/balance or anything.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Side note; I just read some stuff about strings/ropes on the > internet.
> > >> Mentioned are safety margins of 5 times the applied load. That > means 
> > >> at least
> > >> 1,5 tons for me! And a knot reduces the strenght to 50%. O > dear... I'd 
> > >> better
> > >> take the 7mm hunting rope.
> > >>
> > >> Good hunting,
> > >> Patrick
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> From: whpthomas@xxxxxxxxx
> > >> To: python@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >> Subject: [python] Re: Pythonjetrike
> > >> Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 12:57:01 +1000
> > >>
> > >> Hi Patrick,
> > >> I concur with your observations. A loss of traction from braking > or 
> > >> cornering
> > >> too hard is a real hazard with tilting delta trikes. Having > crashed my 
> > >> Jetrike
> > >> on one such occasion, once the front wheel went down, I had no > time to
> > >> recover. I took the bike back later and took this photo. You can > see 
> > >> the skid.
> > >> The wider area at the bottom is where my shin hit the ground and > the 
> > >> painful
> > >> gravel rash began :(
> > >> Best regards to everyone.
> > >> -h
> > >> Henry Thomas
> > >> On 15/09/2011, at 3:46 AM, Patrick van Gompel wrote:I fixed the > wheel 
> > >> today
> > >> and did some more testing.
> > >> With the fixed rocker arm and strings to the swing arms it works > 
> > >> sweet. The
> > >> simple setup of bolts and nuts as pivot points for the strings is > 
> > >> working
> > >> fine, although I probably need to adjust it a bit for better > 
> > >> durability.
> > >> I did a bunch of heavy brake runs. If the pavement is ok and I > brake 
> > >> hard, the
> > >> bike stays stable, but it is hard to stay in the seat. If you go > a bit 
> > >> forward
> > >> out of the seat the back of the bike will come loose. If I manage > to 
> > >> stay put,
> > >> the front wheel did slip sometimes. But this is at maximum > braking and 
> > >> is
> > >> quite a bit more than I can achieve on my mountainbike. The weak > point 
> > >> of a
> > >> leaning delta trike is when the front wheel is really blocked by > the 
> > >> brake and
> > >> it slips for a longer time. When going straight over a field of > grass 
> > >> while
> > >> slipping, makes the trike rather hard to handle (leaning and > 
> > >> steering). When
> > >> going over dirt/gravel and going into a corner while braking, the > 
> > >> front wheel
> > >> breaks out, which makes the rider fall into the corner. When this > 
> > >> happens it
> > >> seems unlikely to recover from it, although you can put your feet > down 
> > >> to
> > >> prevent falling to the ground. But, compared to a mountainbike > when 
> > >> only
> > >> applying the front brake, the performance is likely the same. So > for 
> > >> slippery
> > >> surfaces I do need rear brakes on my trike.
> > >> I tested how the trike reacted when leaning to the front. The > trike 
> > >> becomes
> > >> unridable as soon as a shift in leaning to the right or left is > 
> > >> needed. This
> > >> might be because you don't have the grip of the seat anymore to > 
> > >> control the
> > >> leaning, but possibly the changed CoG has the most impact.
> > >> I changed the steering pivot angle: going up in degrees makes the > 
> > >> trike more
> > >> relaxing to ride and going down makes it more aggressive. I think > that 
> > >> the
> > >> wheelflop had the most impact on this. 65-70 degrees seems like a > 
> > >> sweet spot
> > >> to me.
> > >> I tested the use of the handlebar for leaning. It is only usefull > for 
> > >> stopping
> > >> and keeping the feet on the pedals. Steering the leaning when > cycling 
> > >> didn't
> > >> feel right and was even dangerous when really trying to.
> > >>
> > >> All in all I tested quite a few settings, but it's really hard to > get 
> > >> an idea
> > >> what does what. There are so many variables and while you adjust > one, 
> > >> a few
> > >> others might change too. So if I would make another trike, it > would be 
> > >> hard to
> > >> optimize the design without changing the feel of the ride.
> > >> For example, I am still puzzled how the steering interacts with > the 
> > >> leaning.
> > >> It is a bit hard to see how the trike leans when riding on it, > but 
> > >> with the
> > >> handle bar for leaning I could feel which way and how much is was > 
> > >> going.
> > >> Steering and leaning seems to go together like a natural thing. > Even 
> > >> when I
> > >> tried to stay in the same position on my seat, the bike still > seemed 
> > >> to lean
> > >> with every corner. I can think about reasons to justify this, but > 
> > >> honestly I
> > >> have no clue.
> > >>
> > >> Anyway, I proved it is possible to crash the delta trike, but the > feel 
> > >> and
> > >> stability is really what I wished for when I started to think > about a 
> > >> trike.
> > >> Thanks again to Jürgen and Henry for sharing those great ideas!
> > >> Now I need some durability tests and get a fully loaded trailer > 
> > >> hooked...
> > >>
> > >> Happy cycling,
> > >> Patrick
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > > http://dirk.steuwer.de
> > > ============================================================
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