[pure-silver] Re: Installing Horizontal Enlarger
- From: Lloyd Erlick <lloyd@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2005 01:06:27 -0500
jan2005 from Lloyd Erlick,
Instead of mounting the enlarger on the track, how about making the easel
movable? It would be lighter, could be entirely made of wood, and even
could be ceiling mounted. Place the enlarger where it could remain
stationary conveniently (maybe on a pad of bricks so it's higher than the
flood waters ever reach -- remember recent tsunami, make it higher than you
expect ever to be necessary...).
You could permanently mount spirit levels on the easel, maybe even devise
it so it can be adjusted in three planes easily for perspective control if
you ever need it. The face of it could be a sheet of galvanized steel so
the paper could be held by magnets.
Your floor could remain unobstructed this way, too.
Best of all, you could gather dust and cobwebs by storing the unused steel
floor-track forever.
regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@xxxxxxxxxxxx
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
--
At 08:59 PM 1/20/2005 , you wrote:
>I'm in the process of installing a De Vere 508H 8x10 horizontal enlarger
>in my basement. You can see a pictures at:
>http://www.khbphotografix.com/devere/ It's the model on the right. The
>tricky part involves installing the metal track. This steel track
>consists of parallel runners with the occasional cross bracing. Each
>section is 5 ft long. I'll be installing two of them. The runners are 1"
>wide, 1/2" thick, and 5 ft long. There are counter-bored 1/4" (or so)
>holes every 15.5 inches along the length of the runners. It's 26" from
>the outside edge of one runner to the outside edge of the other. My
>basement floor is the problem, as it slopes towards the middle of the
>floor, where there's a drain. As such, I'm going to have to come up with
>a way to make the tracks level, as that way I can use a level as a
>reference. The other factor is that the basement floor regularly becomes
>wet during heavy rains. This is a big problem in my area. Finally, I can
>more easily work wood than metal. Does anyone have any suggestions for
>how to level the track? Here's a couple idea's:
>
>Idea #1: I could rip maple boards to roughly 3/4x2x30", apply a few
>coats of marine epoxy, and then install 1/4" threaded inserts near the
>end of each board. I'd place a board under the runners every foot in a
>similar fashion to rail road ties. I could then use stainless steel
>elevator bolts (or similar-does anyone know of a source for stainless
>steel elevator bolts?) to adjust the height of each of the maple boards.
>
>Idea #2: I could get some steel stock 1/2 thick x 1 inch wide by 30"
>long. I could then cut 2" long pieces. (What's the best way to cut this?
>Could I put a special blade in my 10" miter saw?) These would be
>attached under the runners. I could then drill and thread holes in the
>stock and use bolts just like in Idea #1. It'd probably be best to weld
>the pieces under the runners, but I don't have a good source for doing
>this. Perhaps epoxy would work? Furthermore, I'd have to coat the steel
>with something to avoid rust.Any suggestions? This option would avoid
>putting wood in a damp environment.
>
>Comments?
>
>-Peter De Smidt
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