In ancient times, I started my processing w/plastic reels and used Paterson reels for years. I was always somewhat of a spaz w/steel reels but when I acquired a large cache of them, I was able to learn to load them using the clip as that gave me a decent starting point once the film was properly centered which is critical for success. I never used PMK with either type reels/tanks. Once I switched to Jobo processing, I used PMK for a while till I learned of pyrocat hd and made the switch to that developer. PMK can have some unevenness in rotary whereas pyrocat seems to avoid that with all the benefits of PMK. Unfortunately myth and scarcity have driven the prices of what's left of Jobo machines and peripherals into the stratosphere so I wouldn't recommend going that route unless you find a great deal somewhere, but Paterson tanks in the past worked just fine. There's a small BB at the film gate which prevents film from backing off the reel (at least on my 30 yr. old reels w/Kodak films) so perhaps that will work if you're going to stay with this type of film. ________________________________ From: Tim Daneliuk <tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Thu, May 19, 2011 9:44:23 AM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Efke R100 Chapter 2: PMK On 5/19/2011 9:35 AM, Jean-David Beyer wrote: > Tim Daneliuk wrote: >> In my ongoing saga of Efke film, I decided to try it with PMK. Here's >> what I found: >> > > - I do not normally clip rollfilm into the retaining clip in the >> center of the reel. I just thread one end into the core of the reel >> and rotate the reel to load. I've done this for years to avoid >> the "half moons" you can get at the end of a roll when trying to >> position the film into the clip. The Efke base is so very thin >> that it actually slipped out of the reel core and started unwinding >> during processing. I ended up doing about 5 minutes of >> Dip-N-Dunk. This had two consequences: >> > >> So ... I'm going to have to learn how to clip the film in place without >> damaging or pinching it. >> > > I normally use Kodak film. When I first started to develop my own film, > I got Nikkor reels and tanks for 35mm and 120 size. Some reels had clips > and some did not. I found I could never get the clips to work without > damaging the film. Even with the lights on for practice. So I pulled the > clips out with a pair of pliers. I just fed the film in starting at the > middle, and held it there for about 1/2 a turn. That was all it took. That has more-or-less exactly been my practice as well for many years. The problem is that the Efke is so thin that it won't stay put in the center and tends to start sliding out ... eventually causing the tail of the film (the outer layer last fed into the reel) to start pushing out. I hate to have to use the clip, but I'm going to have to. It is possible to do so without mangling the film, it just takes practice. > > Now I use Jobo plastic reels that I find more difficult to load, though > I can do it. Because I develop all except 8x10" Kodalith film in a Jobo > tank, even my 4x5 stuff. I open tank process everything - even film on reels. I do have an old plastic reel I could try since the film probably tends to move less against plastic. The problem is that PMK is a very fast oxidizing developer and you have to move new developer across the film or you get streaking. I'm concerned that the plastic reel would note provide enough flow around the edges of the film to make sure there was sufficient transfer of new developer at the edges of the film. > -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tim Daneliuk tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx PGP Key: http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/ ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.