[pure-silver] Re: Colour processing tubes for selenium toning
- From: "Geoff Taylor" <geoff.taylor97@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 21:44:29 -0000
Talking of printing in drums/tubes I've found in my darkroom cupboards a
Paterson Thermo print drum and tank complete with motor drive, fish tank
water heater, but lacking a pump or paddle to keep the water moving . As I
seem to remember in or about 1990 when I last used it the temperature became
localised.
This brings me to my question. Is it necessary to allow developer to
flow over the back of the print as well as the emulsion?
Maybe not with RC, but what about fibre? This all because there is this
idea I can print 16x20. I have trays but can't control the temperature and
there's no room to work properly
Thanks in advance!
Geoff. T.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Healy" <emjayhealy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2004 6:56 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Colour processing tubes for selenium toning
> I would think you'll be giving up an awful lot of control by not being
able to watch the
> toning occur. Youdon't know say what your solution is. I toned a large
series of 16x20's
> a couple years ago in 1:8, I think, and brother, did I go through toner.
Like, to the tune of
> about 3-4 prints per batch of toner! In each fresh batch, the first print
toned quickly and
> evenly; the last couple or three (if I could get that many) needed to be
watched and
> toned for a longer period. In some batches, that last one would split tone
badly, and
> need to be tossed. Certainly with 1:20, your batch life would be longer
than that, but still,
> I just wonder whether you really would want to blindfold-tone a print for
that length of
> time.
>
> If you need to do that, and ridges in a drum pose a problem, you also
could make your
> own drum from scratch. Get a strip of the black ABS tubing and a couple
endcaps from
> Ace Hardware. You'll have to diddle with the endcaps to make them
leakproof, and you'll
> need to sand out the inside of the tube, because it's rough in there. Not
difficult at all,
> and very cheap. I use mine for film, but I've also developed 7x17 fiber
prints in one. The
> only thing you'll need to do is make sure the inside diameter is greater
than the width of
> your largest print.
>
> One last trick with any tube, which I now remember I needed to employ with
fiber: mylar.
> Cut sheets of mylar that are slightly wider and longer than your print.
Slide the print in
> there with the mylar sheet between the print's back and the tubing. When
the time
> comes to remove the print, all you need to do is grasp the edge of the
mylar, and gently
> pull the mylar out of the tube. The print will come with it, undamaged.
>
> Mike
>
> On 21 Nov 2004 at 7:48, Sauerwald Mark wrote:
>
> Greetings all
>
> I am thinking of getting a processing drum - such as
> the 'cibachrome colour processing drum' to use when I
> am toning large prints - when I want to tone a 16x20
> it requires a lot of working solution, and the fumes
> are strong - I was thinking that by using one of these
> drums I could get away with smaller amounts of
> solution, and contain the fumes. I'm sure that I am
> not the first one to try this, so I am interested in
> any comments that you might have - including what to
> look for/avoid in these drums.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
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