[modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
- From: "Terry Lane" <tel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 23:04:55 +1000
Nah Al, I've tapped them 'oles & fitted grub screws at times
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Messer" <al_messer@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 10:52 PM
Subject: [modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
> With the Ugly Loco, on the first set, I tried pressing
> them on. Messed up by bending two of the axles and
> had to make two new ones. On Second try, they were
> turned to a stiff push fit and Loctited in place. Oh,
> that was after broaching and milling for a square key
> as I had not heard about your method at that time. It
> certainly sounds easier for an amatuer like me who is
> sadly lacking in broaching and milling equiptment.
> Didn't I read one suggestion to tap the hole for a
> screw---some where? Or am I having another Senior
> moment?
>
> Al Messer
>
> --- alanjstepney <alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
> > I think that keyways are probably the most common
> > method here, on the larger
> > scales.
> > If you dont want to do that, I would favour a press
> > fit, and then drill a
> > hole half in the wheel, half in the axle, and fit a
> > pin in it.
> > It is tried-and-tested, and works well.
> > Once everything is cleaned up, it is almost
> > invisible too.
> >
> > As for the crankpins, although your proposed method
> > is certainly unusual, I
> > seem to recollect seeing it suggested before, Might
> > have been by Martin
> > Evans on one of his large loco's, or perhaps it was
> > in one of the LLAS
> > magazines.
> >
> > However, unique or not, and I am sure that aspect
> > does not concern you, I
> > think it is a good idea. It should make setting them
> > up in the first place
> > relatively easy.
> >
> > As for the actual manufacture of the matching
> > tapers, I am sure that you
> > have already decided how you want to do it.
> >
> > If it was me, I would set the cross slide at the
> > required angle for the
> > taper, then turn 3 crank pins (I always like making
> > a spare "just in case")
> > and then turn a piece of silver steel /drill rod, at
> > the same setting . (I
> > would probably do 2 pieces of ss / dr.) Finally,
> > file the silver steel down
> > to a D bit, harden and temper, and use that to cut
> > the internal taper in
> > the wheel.
> >
> > alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > www.alanstepney.info
> > Model Engineering, Steam Engine, and Railway
> > technical pages.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Harry Wade" <hww@xxxxxxxx>
> > To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:22 PM
> > Subject: [modeleng] Driver quartering
> >
> >
> > What's the usual way of fixing and quartering
> > drivers on large scale
> > jobs in the UK? The usual practice over here is to
> > use keyways for
> > quartering and fixing drivers but I'd rather not use
> > keys on this
> > locomotive. I'm considering either a press or
> > Loctite, then drill and tap
> > the back of the hub for a threaded cross-pin.
> > Something else I plan to do, that I've not
> > seen done before, is to
> > make the main crankpins adjustable by giving them
> > tapered shanks in
> > matching bores. The locomotive (a Tich x 2) will
> > have Walschearts valve
> > gear and I plan to square the ends of the main
> > crankpins and broach the
> > return cranks to fit, thus some means of exactly
> > locating the squared end
> > (and the return crank) must be found.
> > In plan to do this by boring the driven
> > wheels a 6 degree taper
> > in the crankpin bore. The crankpins are then turned
> > to a 6 degr taper on
> > their shanks and a tapped hole is added to the ends.
> > The taper will allow
> > the crankpins to be adjusted and then pulled tight
> > with the draw-nut/screw
> > on the back of the wheel, and, as Mr. Hardy says to
> > Mr. Laurel "... no one
> > will be the wiser."
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> > Harry Wade
> > Nashville Tennessee
> >
> > MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email
> > to,
> > modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word
> > "unsubscribe" in the subject
> > line.
> >
> > MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email
> > to,
> > modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word
> > "unsubscribe" in the subject line.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
> MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to,
> modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject
line.
>
MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to,
modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject line.
Other related posts:
