[modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
- From: "R.L. Roebuck" <rlr20@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 15:01:05 +0100 (BST)
I was told that the loctite works by forming crystals which jam the
workpieces in place, so if you are glueing a wheel on an axle, you need to
leave a couple of thou clearance so that there is some liquid loctite
in the gap. When starved of oxygen in the space, the crystals start to
grow, and jam in place preventing the wheel from shifting. Heating gets
rid of the crystals so that you can remove the wheel again. Presumably
this is why the joint strength isn't much weakened if you don't clean the
oil from the components.
The same person told me that it is the same process which caused the lid
to jam on a bottle of Baileys and that heating by running under a warm tap
also acts to free this.
ONE SLIGHT THING THOUGH...
This doesn't quite explain why a drop of loctite spilt between free
surfaces, (ie a block of metal sat on a surface table) will cause a bond
that requires a substantial tap with a hammer to break it - so if anyone
could either confirm or totally rubbish the above, it would be good.
Yours,
Rich.
> Does anyone know how does the loctiting process actually
> works?
>
> Regards
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Sheppard" <peter.sheppard@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:39 PM
> Subject: [modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
>
>
> > Hello Harry,
> >
> > Most recently on 7.25" gauge I have used the keyways, however in a
> previous
> > life with some quite large 5" gauge I used to loctite the wheel to the
> axle
> > then drill a hole that was on the join between the axle and wheel
> > (effectively creating a keyway!) and loctite a round pin in there.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Peter
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Harry Wade [SMTP:hww@xxxxxxxx]
> > Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:22 PM
> > To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [modeleng] Driver quartering
> >
> > What's the usual way of fixing and quartering drivers on large
> scale
> > jobs in the UK? The usual practice over here is to use keyways for
> > quartering and fixing drivers but I'd rather not use keys on this
> > locomotive. I'm considering either a press or Loctite, then drill and tap
> > the back of the hub for a threaded cross-pin.
> > Something else I plan to do, that I've not seen done before, is to
> > make the main crankpins adjustable by giving them tapered shanks in
> > matching bores. The locomotive (a Tich x 2) will have Walschearts valve
> > gear and I plan to square the ends of the main crankpins and broach the
> > return cranks to fit, thus some means of exactly locating the squared end
> > (and the return crank) must be found.
> > In plan to do this by boring the driven wheels a 6 degree taper
> > in the crankpin bore. The crankpins are then turned to a 6 degr taper on
> > their shanks and a tapped hole is added to the ends. The taper will allow
> > the crankpins to be adjusted and then pulled tight with the draw-nut/screw
> > on the back of the wheel, and, as Mr. Hardy says to Mr. Laurel "... no one
> > will be the wiser."
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> > Harry Wade
> > Nashville Tennessee
> >
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