[modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
- From: "alanjstepney" <alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:26:06 +0100
I think that keyways are probably the most common method here, on the larger
scales.
If you dont want to do that, I would favour a press fit, and then drill a
hole half in the wheel, half in the axle, and fit a pin in it.
It is tried-and-tested, and works well.
Once everything is cleaned up, it is almost invisible too.
As for the crankpins, although your proposed method is certainly unusual, I
seem to recollect seeing it suggested before, Might have been by Martin
Evans on one of his large loco's, or perhaps it was in one of the LLAS
magazines.
However, unique or not, and I am sure that aspect does not concern you, I
think it is a good idea. It should make setting them up in the first place
relatively easy.
As for the actual manufacture of the matching tapers, I am sure that you
have already decided how you want to do it.
If it was me, I would set the cross slide at the required angle for the
taper, then turn 3 crank pins (I always like making a spare "just in case")
and then turn a piece of silver steel /drill rod, at the same setting . (I
would probably do 2 pieces of ss / dr.) Finally, file the silver steel down
to a D bit, harden and temper, and use that to cut the internal taper in
the wheel.
alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.alanstepney.info
Model Engineering, Steam Engine, and Railway technical pages.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry Wade" <hww@xxxxxxxx>
To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:22 PM
Subject: [modeleng] Driver quartering
What's the usual way of fixing and quartering drivers on large scale
jobs in the UK? The usual practice over here is to use keyways for
quartering and fixing drivers but I'd rather not use keys on this
locomotive. I'm considering either a press or Loctite, then drill and tap
the back of the hub for a threaded cross-pin.
Something else I plan to do, that I've not seen done before, is to
make the main crankpins adjustable by giving them tapered shanks in
matching bores. The locomotive (a Tich x 2) will have Walschearts valve
gear and I plan to square the ends of the main crankpins and broach the
return cranks to fit, thus some means of exactly locating the squared end
(and the return crank) must be found.
In plan to do this by boring the driven wheels a 6 degree taper
in the crankpin bore. The crankpins are then turned to a 6 degr taper on
their shanks and a tapped hole is added to the ends. The taper will allow
the crankpins to be adjusted and then pulled tight with the draw-nut/screw
on the back of the wheel, and, as Mr. Hardy says to Mr. Laurel "... no one
will be the wiser."
Regards,
Harry Wade
Nashville Tennessee
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