[modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
- From: Allen Messer <al_messer@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 05:52:22 -0700 (PDT)
With the Ugly Loco, on the first set, I tried pressing
them on. Messed up by bending two of the axles and
had to make two new ones. On Second try, they were
turned to a stiff push fit and Loctited in place. Oh,
that was after broaching and milling for a square key
as I had not heard about your method at that time. It
certainly sounds easier for an amatuer like me who is
sadly lacking in broaching and milling equiptment.
Didn't I read one suggestion to tap the hole for a
screw---some where? Or am I having another Senior
moment?
Al Messer
--- alanjstepney <alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> I think that keyways are probably the most common
> method here, on the larger
> scales.
> If you dont want to do that, I would favour a press
> fit, and then drill a
> hole half in the wheel, half in the axle, and fit a
> pin in it.
> It is tried-and-tested, and works well.
> Once everything is cleaned up, it is almost
> invisible too.
>
> As for the crankpins, although your proposed method
> is certainly unusual, I
> seem to recollect seeing it suggested before, Might
> have been by Martin
> Evans on one of his large loco's, or perhaps it was
> in one of the LLAS
> magazines.
>
> However, unique or not, and I am sure that aspect
> does not concern you, I
> think it is a good idea. It should make setting them
> up in the first place
> relatively easy.
>
> As for the actual manufacture of the matching
> tapers, I am sure that you
> have already decided how you want to do it.
>
> If it was me, I would set the cross slide at the
> required angle for the
> taper, then turn 3 crank pins (I always like making
> a spare "just in case")
> and then turn a piece of silver steel /drill rod, at
> the same setting . (I
> would probably do 2 pieces of ss / dr.) Finally,
> file the silver steel down
> to a D bit, harden and temper, and use that to cut
> the internal taper in
> the wheel.
>
> alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> www.alanstepney.info
> Model Engineering, Steam Engine, and Railway
> technical pages.
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Harry Wade" <hww@xxxxxxxx>
> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:22 PM
> Subject: [modeleng] Driver quartering
>
>
> What's the usual way of fixing and quartering
> drivers on large scale
> jobs in the UK? The usual practice over here is to
> use keyways for
> quartering and fixing drivers but I'd rather not use
> keys on this
> locomotive. I'm considering either a press or
> Loctite, then drill and tap
> the back of the hub for a threaded cross-pin.
> Something else I plan to do, that I've not
> seen done before, is to
> make the main crankpins adjustable by giving them
> tapered shanks in
> matching bores. The locomotive (a Tich x 2) will
> have Walschearts valve
> gear and I plan to square the ends of the main
> crankpins and broach the
> return cranks to fit, thus some means of exactly
> locating the squared end
> (and the return crank) must be found.
> In plan to do this by boring the driven
> wheels a 6 degree taper
> in the crankpin bore. The crankpins are then turned
> to a 6 degr taper on
> their shanks and a tapped hole is added to the ends.
> The taper will allow
> the crankpins to be adjusted and then pulled tight
> with the draw-nut/screw
> on the back of the wheel, and, as Mr. Hardy says to
> Mr. Laurel "... no one
> will be the wiser."
>
>
> Regards,
> Harry Wade
> Nashville Tennessee
>
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