[elky] Re: Ugly weather
- From: Robert Adams <elcam84@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2010 17:18:31 -0600
On Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 3:44 PM, Mary McCarthy <printces@xxxxxxxxxxxx>wrote:
>
>
>> Back out to work on the laundry room. More pics to
>> come. Here is the latest one though.
>> http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l206/elcam84/new%20house/?action=view¤t=028.jpg<
>> http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l206/elcam84/new%20house/?action=view¤t=028.jpg>
>>
>>
>
> looks real good! Is there a reason you didn't use joist hangers? Just
> wondering.
I can but I have to notch all the floor joists for the hanger
since the joists sit on the sill plate. If I don't notch it the joists would
stick up a little higher than the rim joist. And I can't block between at
the rim joist because the hanger is in the way. the floor joist has about 4"
of sill plate at each end to hold it up.
> Having just mopped up a puddle from Mr. Washing machine, are you going to
> put a pan under yours?
I'm going to stack the washer and dryer as it takes up allot
less room and allows me to put a small room for a toilet. The whole laundry
room will be tiled and I am putting in floor drains as well. So if something
pukes water it has somewhere to go.
> 7/8 is pretty thick for a floor. More than you would get today.
The old as in really old subfloor is 1x4 tongue and groove and
measures right at 7/8 Over that is another layer of 3/4 in most places..
Today most builders put the floor joists on 24" centers using wood I beams
and a layer of 3/4 OSB or ply the better builders will use 2 layers of 3/4
and sometimes 16" spacing.
In my case what the existing is doesn't really matter unless
I and up reusing what is in place in some areas. I will be rebuilding the
house totally over time. The floor joists of the house are all 2x8 on about
7.5' beams all on 16" centers. Not stiff enough for putting tile over hence
the additional layers of decking and blocking etc.
The plan is tile in the laundry room and wood flooring in the
kitchen. Now whatr makes this easier is there is an exterior door between
the two so the threshold will hide and difference. I will be removing the
existing threshold from the door and replacing it with a marble one on the
floor. So I'll cut down the door frame a little to get the sweep to seal on
the marble and it will be a very small and less noticable threshold and make
the transition easier to fudge heights within 1/4".
> Think I'd measure how thick the floor needs to be to be level with the
> rest of the house (taking into account the tile), then divide by two and put
> one layer north/south and the other east/west. All the weight is under the
> washing machine, the rest is just light use so you could probably reinforce
> just under there, maybe sister a joist onto another? I wouldn't worry too
> much about it - houses don't have bomb shelters anymore.
>
I tend to build things strong so that means way over IRC code
in many cases.
>
> Can't help on the weather thing - here is rainy, high 30's to 40's with an
> occasional snow dusting. Little hail, too. A windstorm last Friday night
> knocked out the power (Ellie stumbled around in the dark the whole time) but
> only brought down a lot of limbs, no trees or damage. Typical for December.
>
> Mary
Well it hit 85 here... And last year we had already seen
over 6" of snow by now and got over a foot on christmas.
Oh here is a pic of a door I put in a friends house Sunday. The
existing door was taller than normal and was full glass. Well they needed a
dog door... So... I ended up getting a half glass wood slab and mortising it
all etc then had to cut a hole in a perfectly good door. I forgot to get a
pic without the dog door.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l206/elcam84/010.jpg I really don't like
making doors and it's over a 100 mile round trip to his new place in Dallas.
Course allot of people make that drive and further every day.
Robert Adams
>
>
>
>> I have a half sheet already installed in that
>> corner. As you can see I also add blocking between the joists and up against
>> the rim joist. This just makes it a little stronger and gives more support
>> to the wall above it. The floor is pretty stiff as is but I may add another
>> layer of 1/2" before the 1/4" hardi board and tile. The 3/4 is under the
>> walls and I may run the 1/2" under them as well and shorten the wall a
>> little (the studs are too long at 94.5 anyway).
>> Been debating how I want to do the floors as in how thick.
>> The kitchen is planned to be solid wood. The house has 7/8 tongue and groove
>> for it's base subfloor which is hard to equal up to these days and most of
>> the house has 3/4 and some places have another 1/4" underlayment. goofy
>>
>>
>
>
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