Great progress. Can't wait to see it in person! JC On Fri, Jul 22, 2011 at 12:58 PM, Ray Buck <rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I see you have it planned, but just for discussion sake, since it's > solely a racecar, maybe cut a hole in stock hood, and let air filter sit in > 135 MPH wind. Same as cold ram air, and avoid all the plumbing over the > engine. > Smokey Mt Frank > > Bleeve me, aero is the way to go. I plan to run the car faster (150-160 > at least) and at that speed, managing the air over the car, particularly > keeping the flow smooth is important. Many guys even run the exhaust out in > front of the front wheel openings to help smooth that area. If I was > running it on a drag strip, I'd cut the hole and put a scoop on it. But on > the salt, you're running for a much longer distance and the less aero drag > there is, the more speed you can wring out of the car. It's not like the > drags where ya got fat rubber gripping the VHT surface at the starting > line...we run skinny tires (better traction, for sure, since the weight of > the car is concentrated on a smaller area) and run for a minimum of a mile > before the timing lights on the 130 course, 3 miles on the long course. On > the international courses they set up at the Shootout, it's 11 miles long. > Four miles to get up to speed, 3 timed miles and 4 miles to slow down. > Sounds crazy, but at 450mph, it takes a while to get a 10,000 pound car (I'm > not kidding...that's about what the Burkland liner weighs) stopped. And if > one chute fails...well, it gets kinda hairy: > > > > In this shot, only one of the wheels is in contact with the ground. He > stopped 1/4 mile short of I-80. Here's the whole thing: > http://www.chevyasylum.com/lsr/bsf2008/shootout/burkland/Welcome.html > > About the wires on the headers/pulley: Yes, there are wires on the > headers. :) They're for the probes that go to the Exhaust Gas Temperature > (EGT) monitor probes (this is an old photo): > > > > In the other photo it looks like they're on the pulley, but they're > zip-tied to the alternator bracket. > > I'm on my way to get some silver paint for the underside of the hood. > > Later, > > r > > > On 7/22/2011 10:48 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx wrote: > > > In a message dated 7/22/2011 12:22:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes: > > > > It's needed. The carb won't clear the hood with the single-plane manifold > and 1" spacer...not to mention the cold air intake: > > > > Alla that stuff brings the top of the air cleaner about 3" above the normal > hood line. The hood has a 4 3/4" raised section. I figgered 6" was > overkill. :) > > r > > > On 7/22/2011 9:54 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx wrote: > > Is the raised hood a necessity, or for looks? > > > Smokey Mt Frank > > In a message dated 7/22/2011 11:25:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes: > > > > I could have been that, but it wouldn't restart until it had cooled off. > The O/P at idle is around 10 psi and runs at 40 (when hot) at around 2500 > rpm. It's about what I'd expect in a motor with that many miles on it. > > Last nite I was gonna install the glass hood on the race car, but decided > I'd looked at the peeling paint on the nose for long enough. I scraped, > sanded and cleaned, then gave it a quick shot of black: > > > > The lens kinda distorts it a bit, but it looks like what it is: a > rattle-can job that covers the cracked/peeled areas. "Better'n it wuz." ;) > > I'll paint the underside of the hood silver and the top flat black for the > time being. > > r > > >