[elky] Re: AAA card...or not

  • From: Ray Buck <rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 11:58:50 -0600

I see you have it planned, but just for discussion sake, since it's solely a racecar, maybe cut a hole in stock hood, and let air filter sit in 135 MPH wind. Same as cold ram air, and avoid all the plumbing over the engine.
Smokey Mt Frank

Bleeve me, aero is the way to go.  I plan to run the car faster (150-160 at least) and at that speed, managing the air over the car, particularly keeping the flow smooth is important.  Many guys even run the exhaust out in front of the front wheel openings to help smooth that area.  If I was running it on a drag strip, I'd cut the hole and put a scoop on it.  But on the salt, you're running for a much longer distance and the less aero drag there is, the more speed you can wring out of the car.  It's not like the drags where ya got fat rubber gripping the VHT surface at the starting line...we run skinny tires (better traction, for sure, since the weight of the car is concentrated on a smaller area) and run for a minimum of a mile before the timing lights on the 130 course, 3 miles on the long course.  On the international courses they set up at the Shootout, it's 11 miles long.  Four miles to get up to speed, 3 timed miles and 4 miles to slow down.  Sounds crazy, but at 450mph, it takes a while to get a 10,000 pound car (I'm not kidding...that's about what the Burkland liner weighs) stopped.  And if one chute fails...well, it gets kinda hairy:



In this shot, only one of the wheels is in contact with the ground.  He stopped 1/4 mile short of I-80.  Here's the whole thing:
http://www.chevyasylum.com/lsr/bsf2008/shootout/burkland/Welcome.html

About the wires on the headers/pulley:  Yes, there are wires on the headers.  :)  They're for the probes that go to the Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) monitor probes (this is an old photo):



In the other photo it looks like they're on the pulley, but they're zip-tied to the alternator bracket.

I'm on my way to get some silver paint for the underside of the hood. 

Later,

r

On 7/22/2011 10:48 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx wrote:
 
In a message dated 7/22/2011 12:22:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:


It's needed.  The carb won't clear the hood with the single-plane manifold and 1" spacer...not to mention the cold air intake:



Alla that stuff brings the top of the air cleaner about 3" above the normal hood line.  The hood has a 4 3/4" raised section.  I figgered 6" was overkill.  :)

r


On 7/22/2011 9:54 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx wrote:
Is the raised hood a necessity, or for looks?
 
 
Smokey Mt Frank
 
In a message dated 7/22/2011 11:25:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:


I could have been that, but it wouldn't restart until it had cooled off.  The O/P at idle is around 10 psi and runs at 40 (when hot) at around 2500 rpm.  It's about what I'd expect in a motor with that many miles on it.

Last nite I was gonna install the glass hood on the race car, but decided I'd looked at the peeling paint on the nose for long enough.  I scraped, sanded and cleaned, then gave it a quick shot of black:



The lens kinda distorts it a bit, but it looks like what it is: a rattle-can job that covers the cracked/peeled areas.  "Better'n it wuz."  ;)

I'll paint the underside of the hood silver and the top flat black for the time being.

r

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