[elky] Re: AAA card...or not
- From: Robert Adams <elcam84@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 18:59:59 -0500
Nice to see the car in the garage getting ready
to race rather than when I saw it sitting in the driveway...
I just finished changing the front wheel
bearings in the PT cruiser. The pass side was starting to slop but the
drivers side was really really bad. You can turn it by hand and hear the
noise from it, just imagine how much louder it was in the car. Gotta
replace the clutch master and slave cylinder next cause the clutch won't
release when hot. The slave cyl moves almost 1" when dead cold but after it
warms up it only moves 1/4". Then the brakes after that and then the control
arm bushings as they are torn apart. All in less than 45K and all this was
bad before 30K, I just kept putting it off.
Will do plugs too as the upper intake leaks a little
and you have to take it off to get to the plugs so why not... Or why not
drop a tree on it....
Robert Adams
On Fri, Jul 22, 2011 at 10:24 AM, Ray Buck <rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I could have been that, but it wouldn't restart until it had cooled off.
> The O/P at idle is around 10 psi and runs at 40 (when hot) at around 2500
> rpm. It's about what I'd expect in a motor with that many miles on it.
>
> Last nite I was gonna install the glass hood on the race car, but decided
> I'd looked at the peeling paint on the nose for long enough. I scraped,
> sanded and cleaned, then gave it a quick shot of black:
>
>
>
> The lens kinda distorts it a bit, but it looks like what it is: a
> rattle-can job that covers the cracked/peeled areas. "Better'n it wuz." ;)
>
> I'll paint the underside of the hood silver and the top flat black for the
> time being.
>
> r
>
>
> On 7/21/2011 9:58 PM, Robert Adams wrote:
>
> If it happens again watch the oil pressure at idle. If
> it's dropping then the oil pressure switch is probably opening and shutting
> the fuel pump off. Pretty common on cars with miles and hot weather.
>
> Not sure which engine you have but most of the 6s
> are easier to work on. But F-bods had a few odd engines (including 151 4
> cyls)
>
>
> Robert Adams
>
> On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 10:27 PM, Ray Buck <rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> I sure understand about things goin to hell as soon as the warranty is
>> up. Sucks big time.
>>
>> I installed the new ignition module and coil (took a good portion of the
>> day for something I could have done in an hour with a smallblock...makes me
>> start to wonder) and then put another bottle of cooling system cleaner in
>> and drove the beast for about an hour. Temp never got over 185. I think
>> I've got the overheating thing under control (fingers crossed.) Now to get
>> the horn to work, dose it up with alcohol in the gas tank and take it for
>> emission testing and safety inspection. (More finger crossing.)
>>
>> No car show this weekend, so I'm gonna work on the race car. It's gettin
>> real close to BFT time. (Every appendage possible crossed.)
>>
>> r
>>
>>
>> On 7/21/2011 8:10 PM, Jim Dos wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the report.
>>
>> You always think of the small stuff that usually works on the problem.
>> Skills , man. You got skills.
>>
>> I think your printer happiness (unhappiness) has spread to me. My Kodak
>> esp 9 AOI has been real good , but all of a sudden it’s printing real
>> faintly. Have always been using Kodak genuine carts, and similar problem
>> with the quality. I guess I’ll go to Kodak and see if there are any
>> solutions other than sending it in.. It’s out of warranty.
>>
>> Time for something new I suppose.. this is over a year old..never fails.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> [mailto:elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<elky-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]
>> *On Behalf Of *Ray Buck
>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 21, 2011 12:13 PM
>> *To:* elky@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> *Subject:* [elky] Re: AAA card...or not
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm not keeping track. I don't wanna know. :) With the exception of the
>> radiator, most of the parts have been fairly cheap maintenance items. Like
>> the temp gauge: only $18. The coil and module will be $60, but I'll keep
>> the old ones as spares in the car, since they seem to work fine when cool.
>>
>> I don't have a huge amount invested in it and all the stuff I've replaced,
>> with a coupla exceptions are things I'd wanna replace on a car of that age
>> and mileage (although it has 100k more than the seller told me...I'm still
>> pissed about that) to make sure it was reliable.
>>
>> Off to the parts store.
>>
>> r
>>
>>
>> On 7/21/2011 10:54 AM, STILLFRANKSFAULT@xxxxxxx wrote:
>>
>> How much have you invested in this Camaro so far?
>>
>>
>>
>> Smokey Mt Frank
>>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 7/21/2011 12:41:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> rbuck@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>>
>>
>>
>> Yesterday I did a buncha stuff on the Camaro, including running some
>> radiator flush chemical (sodium citrate) thru the cooling system, then
>> backflushing it and finding out that my manual fan switch has to be switched
>> on AFTER starting the motor. I have no idea why, but it does.
>>
>> So yesterday around dusk (9 pm or so) I took it out for a drive. Temp
>> never got over 160...no thermostat in it at the moment. But. (As usual,
>> there's a "but".) I probably drove it 3 times as long as I'd ever driven it
>> before and, again, it stayed nice and cool. I decided to turn back and head
>> home (I was almost to downtown Salt Lake City) and I made the mistake of
>> turning onto a street carrying traffic from the minor-league baseball game
>> that had just ended. Stop and go for at least 15 minutes...and then the
>> motor just shut off.
>>
>> So I'm stuck in traffic with a dead motor and I turn the 4-way flashers
>> on. Then I twist the key and the motor starts. 90 seconds later, it dies
>> again and won't start. A coupla guys push me and the car into a parking lot
>> and I call AAA. Great. I can get it hauled back to my house.
>>
>> After 30 minutes of waiting (traffic was still real heavy) and no tow
>> truck, I twist the key and the thing starts. So I let it run for 5 minutes,
>> shut it off for a few and try again. Starts right up. So I called AAA and
>> cancelled the towing request and drove the thing home. Again, engine
>> temperature never got over 160.
>>
>> Diagnosis: Flaky ignition module and/or coil. So today I'll go get
>> another bottle of radiator flush, do it again and replace both the coil and
>> module. Then I'll drive it for a while with the flush chemical in it, then
>> bring it home (assuming that it doesn't die on me) backflush the cooling
>> system again and move on to the next problem, the lack of a horn (the fuse
>> is good.)
>>
>> Anyway, I'm very glad I had the AAA card, even though I didn't need it in
>> the end. It sure helped with peace of mind, knowing that if I couldn't get
>> it running again, I'd have a way to get it home.
>>
>> I can't remember if I sent this photo:
>>
>>
>>
>> The new hood arrived yesterday and I brought it home from the trucking
>> depot (that's a story in itself) and it's ready to be bolted on as soon as I
>> remove the hood latch mechanism, which is what's keeping it from seating
>> correctly along the front edge.
>>
>> Busy, busy, busy. :)
>>
>> r
>>
>>
>
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