[rollei_list] Re: Neopan 400 in Ultrafin

  • From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 13:14:53 -0700


----- Original Message ----- From: "Jan Decher" <jdecher@xxxxxxx>
To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 12:22 PM
Subject: [rollei_list] Neopan 400 in Ultrafin


Hi Folks,

I processed a roll of Neopan 400 from my Rolleiflex 3.5 E last weekend. Used a Kiindermann steel tank with Nikor insert. Processed in Ultrafin liquid 1:9 with a pre-rinse, Tetenal stop bath and Tetenal Superfix Plus fixer (4-5 minutes). Finished the film after 10 minute watering with 1 min in Agfa Agepon (2 %) and room-temperature air-drying.

See example at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/14961186462/lightbox/ (Altenberg Cathedral)

The film shows the same wavy streaks on a lot of pictures, but not all. Anyone know whats going on? Was it the pre-rinse with high PH tap water, light leak of the roll? Film touching itself in the can (loading error)???

I don't think the camera is to blame. Will know for sure tomorrow when I get a Portra 160 back that I shot in the camera after the Neopan. Very frustrating, especially for a series I shot in Leiden last week - not easy to replace! Here is one that looks halfway okay:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/14775138267/lightbox/ (Leiden from the V&D cafeteria terrace).

Jan

Do the streaks continue between frames? Can you see anything by reflected light where the streaks are? If this is from inadequate fixing there may be some silver halide visible by reflected light from the emulsion side. Re-fixing is always possible. The cut film can be fixed in a tray (as was pointed out by someone else), just agitate it as you would small prints or cut film. Soak the film in plain water for about five minutes before re-fixing. This is to insure even penetration of the fixer into the emulsion. Then fix for a normal time. If you have a hypo clearing agent use that and wash as directed. For fixing in a normal acid fixing bath film should be washed for half an hour in running water or in enough changes of water to take up half an hour (about five changes with constant agitation). Agepon as a final treatment is OK or you can use a Kodak Photo-Flo (is it still made?) with about an ounce of 70% rubbing alcohol added to a quart or liter of final rinse. If you add the alcohol use about half the recommended amount of Photo-Flo. I don't know if this works for Agepon but think its about the same stuff. If the film appears to have a deposit on it wipe it off while the film is wet using cotton balls. It is possible for film to have deposits of all sorts of stuff especially if its old. I think it unlikely this is from uneven development since a pre-rinse was used. However, if film buckles in the tank spools and the surface touches its possible. However, I think then you would probably have both thin spots from lack of development and some unfixed or semi-fixed areas. A note on washing: The acid in acid fixer all by itself tends to lengthen the washing time. This is because it leaves the emulsion in an acid condition where it tends to bind fixer and fixer reaction products. This is true even if there is no hardening agent in the fixer. If an alum hardener is used there is further binding from the aluminum but this binding takes place only when the emulsion is acid. So, if the emulsion is treated in a neutral bath it will break both kinds of chemical bond and promote much faster washing. Kodak used sodium sulfite neutralized with bisulfite in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent. This was both to leave the emulsion in a neutral pH condition and also because sulfite is an active ion exchanger which further accelerates washing. Where KHCA or a similar bath such as Ilford's wash aid, is used about five minutes is sufficient to wash the film free of thiosulfate and fixer reaction products. Where it is NOT used a half hour is recommended. Further, the fixing bath must be reasonably fresh or it will leave insoluble reaction products in the emulsion. KHCA and similar treatments tend to break the bonds these reaction products have so will to some degree compensate for somewhat exhausted fixer.


--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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