[pure-silver] Re: Pure Black and Golden.
- From: Snoopy <snoopy@xxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2005 14:09:48 +0100
Dear Peter et. al.,
yes that another way of putting it: I find out the "real" ASA of the film=20
_for my development_ and _my_ process. This may also be different to "your"=
=20
real ASA findings, as you might use a different developer etc. etc.=20
different water from a tap etc.
This method was described by someone from the Photoclub years ago and I=20
have stuck to it since, makes sense for me and I get nice, even, "juicy"=20
(i.e. thick) negatives out.
As for the use and application of the zone system, I found the following=20
ancient post by Jim Brick helpful. It sounds like a joke, but there is a=20
lot of helpful truth in it:
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Zone system in a nutshell:"
-----------------------------------------------------------
by Jim Brick
------------------
There are four zones.
Zone Good, Zone Bad, Zone Ugly, Zone Butt Ugly.
To use the system:
Wake up. Get out of bed. Go outside.
Zone good:
It is light overcast-ish, light shadows. But good light direction. Normal=20
open contrast.
Expose normal (eg; APX-100 @ 100,) develop normal.
Zone bad:
It is dismally overcast, no shadows. Perhaps even drizzle. No contrast.=20
Underexpose one stop
(eg; APX-100 @ 200,) over develop 20%
Zone ugly:
The sun is out, sky is clear, and there are blatant shadows. High contrast.=
=20
Overexpose one stop
(eg; APX-100 @ 50,) under develop 20%
Zone butt ugly:
The sun is squinty bright and the shadows really deep. Really high contrast.
Go in and go back to bed!
...But if you are a die-hard...
Overexpose two stops (eg; APX-100 @ 25,) under develop 30%
The above is simple, works very well, and produces great easily printable=20
negatives. I typically use an incident meter, APX-100, D-76 1:1, 13 min @=20
70=B0 as normal in a roll film tank or hard rubber tanks and sheet film=20
hangers. Diffusion enlarger, Ilford Multigrade paper & Multigrade developer=
=20
1:14.
Everyone has their own methods. This just happens to be one of mine. It=20
helps keep me from going more insane than I already am! The older you get,=
=20
the less time you have (in front of you) to enjoy photography. I sold my=20
densitometer. I do have a calibrated Pentax Digital Spot meter that I use=20
when confronted with a really difficult scene. But this becomes more and=20
more rare since no matter where I am, it feels like I've been there before.=
=20
Maybe I have.
I use slow film (Efke 25, APX-25) in rodinal 1:100 or a Willi Buetler=20
formula, medium speed film (Efke 100, APX-100, Plus-X Pro, Acros) in D-76=20
1:1 or Xtol 1:3, high speed film (Tri-X, Neopan 1600) in Xtol 1:1. Plus-X=
=20
and Tri-X are still marvelous films. They never let you down.
Since my main two cameras are a Hasselblad system with a plethora of backs,=
=20
and a Technikardan 45S with a plethora of Grafmatics, I can pretty much=20
handle multiple lighting conditions (high contrast - no contrast) with=20
ease. All at the same time. I just can't forget to write on the Grafmatic=20
or Hass back. Short term memory is the first to go!!! What I write on the=20
film holder is "Good, Bad, Ugly, or Butt Ugly." That's all the info I=20
really need.
:-)
Jim (zoned-out) Brick
--- End quote
Love,
Snoopy
At 11:21 03.02.2005, you wrote:
>Hi Snoopy,
>
>thanks for your contribution. You will see from my other
>posts that it definitely was underexposure and possibly
>overdevelopment.
>I have a grey card and use the spotmeter in my Nikon 801s
>since I don't have a separate hand held spotmeter.
>If I understand you correctly, with the grey card exposures,
>are you describing how you determine which shadow level to
>expose for? i.e. are you determining your film's customised
>ASA this way? Does this method relate to the often quoted
>rule of thumb "expose for the shadows and develop for the
>highlights"?
>
>regards
>Peter Badcock
>
> > 2- Take pictures of the (gray) card under even light in a
>typical
> > situation, i.e.=3D20 daylight, studio light, flash etc. Very
> > helpful here, to have a white board=3D20 or similar in the
> > picture where you jot down the light source and...
> >
> > 3- the exposure: this you vary from frame to frame from -2
> > fstops in 1/3=3D20 increments to +2 f-stops. Be sure to
> > always note this with board marker on=3D20 the white board
> > for EACH exposure AND ensure via viewfinder, that the
> > white=3D20 board is also in the picture !! (Not a joke).
> >
> > 4- Develop the film according to your secret recipe
> > (don=3DB4t forget the=3D20 chickens to beead and virgins to
> > sacrifice...)
> >
> > 5- Take magnifying glass and count the number of gray
> > shades you can make=3D20 out in each frame... the exposure
> > that gives you most grays is "it". Read=3D20 off how many
> > f-stops plus you had used for that exposure...thats what
> > you=3D20 set your camera for, for the light used by this
> > frame. For different light=3D20 sources you will get
> > different figures usually.
> >
>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your=20
>account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you=20
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