Nah Al, I've tapped them 'oles & fitted grub screws at times ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allen Messer" <al_messer@xxxxxxxxx> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 10:52 PM Subject: [modeleng] Re: Driver quartering > With the Ugly Loco, on the first set, I tried pressing > them on. Messed up by bending two of the axles and > had to make two new ones. On Second try, they were > turned to a stiff push fit and Loctited in place. Oh, > that was after broaching and milling for a square key > as I had not heard about your method at that time. It > certainly sounds easier for an amatuer like me who is > sadly lacking in broaching and milling equiptment. > Didn't I read one suggestion to tap the hole for a > screw---some where? Or am I having another Senior > moment? > > Al Messer > > --- alanjstepney <alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > wrote: > > > I think that keyways are probably the most common > > method here, on the larger > > scales. > > If you dont want to do that, I would favour a press > > fit, and then drill a > > hole half in the wheel, half in the axle, and fit a > > pin in it. > > It is tried-and-tested, and works well. > > Once everything is cleaned up, it is almost > > invisible too. > > > > As for the crankpins, although your proposed method > > is certainly unusual, I > > seem to recollect seeing it suggested before, Might > > have been by Martin > > Evans on one of his large loco's, or perhaps it was > > in one of the LLAS > > magazines. > > > > However, unique or not, and I am sure that aspect > > does not concern you, I > > think it is a good idea. It should make setting them > > up in the first place > > relatively easy. > > > > As for the actual manufacture of the matching > > tapers, I am sure that you > > have already decided how you want to do it. > > > > If it was me, I would set the cross slide at the > > required angle for the > > taper, then turn 3 crank pins (I always like making > > a spare "just in case") > > and then turn a piece of silver steel /drill rod, at > > the same setting . (I > > would probably do 2 pieces of ss / dr.) Finally, > > file the silver steel down > > to a D bit, harden and temper, and use that to cut > > the internal taper in > > the wheel. > > > > alan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > www.alanstepney.info > > Model Engineering, Steam Engine, and Railway > > technical pages. > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Harry Wade" <hww@xxxxxxxx> > > To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:22 PM > > Subject: [modeleng] Driver quartering > > > > > > What's the usual way of fixing and quartering > > drivers on large scale > > jobs in the UK? The usual practice over here is to > > use keyways for > > quartering and fixing drivers but I'd rather not use > > keys on this > > locomotive. I'm considering either a press or > > Loctite, then drill and tap > > the back of the hub for a threaded cross-pin. > > Something else I plan to do, that I've not > > seen done before, is to > > make the main crankpins adjustable by giving them > > tapered shanks in > > matching bores. The locomotive (a Tich x 2) will > > have Walschearts valve > > gear and I plan to square the ends of the main > > crankpins and broach the > > return cranks to fit, thus some means of exactly > > locating the squared end > > (and the return crank) must be found. > > In plan to do this by boring the driven > > wheels a 6 degree taper > > in the crankpin bore. The crankpins are then turned > > to a 6 degr taper on > > their shanks and a tapped hole is added to the ends. > > The taper will allow > > the crankpins to be adjusted and then pulled tight > > with the draw-nut/screw > > on the back of the wheel, and, as Mr. Hardy says to > > Mr. Laurel "... no one > > will be the wiser." > > > > > > Regards, > > Harry Wade > > Nashville Tennessee > > > > MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST. > > > > To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email > > to, > > modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word > > "unsubscribe" in the subject > > line. > > > > MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST. > > > > To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email > > to, > > modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word > > "unsubscribe" in the subject line. > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST. > > To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to, > modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject line. > MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST. To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to, modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject line.