[modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
- From: "Dennis Rayner" <dennis.rayner@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 14:50:15 +0100
Hi Peter,
I seem to remember reading some time ago that the drilling of a hole in
the manner you suggest would affect the "hoop stresses" in the loctite bond.
I assumed this meant that the loctite bond would be weakened. Anyone else
heard of this? Does anyone know how does the loctiting process actually
works?
Regards
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Sheppard" <peter.sheppard@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:39 PM
Subject: [modeleng] Re: Driver quartering
> Hello Harry,
>
> Most recently on 7.25" gauge I have used the keyways, however in a
previous
> life with some quite large 5" gauge I used to loctite the wheel to the
axle
> then drill a hole that was on the join between the axle and wheel
> (effectively creating a keyway!) and loctite a round pin in there.
>
> Regards
>
> Peter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Harry Wade [SMTP:hww@xxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 2:22 PM
> To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [modeleng] Driver quartering
>
> What's the usual way of fixing and quartering drivers on large
scale
> jobs in the UK? The usual practice over here is to use keyways for
> quartering and fixing drivers but I'd rather not use keys on this
> locomotive. I'm considering either a press or Loctite, then drill and tap
> the back of the hub for a threaded cross-pin.
> Something else I plan to do, that I've not seen done before, is to
> make the main crankpins adjustable by giving them tapered shanks in
> matching bores. The locomotive (a Tich x 2) will have Walschearts valve
> gear and I plan to square the ends of the main crankpins and broach the
> return cranks to fit, thus some means of exactly locating the squared end
> (and the return crank) must be found.
> In plan to do this by boring the driven wheels a 6 degree taper
> in the crankpin bore. The crankpins are then turned to a 6 degr taper on
> their shanks and a tapped hole is added to the ends. The taper will allow
> the crankpins to be adjusted and then pulled tight with the draw-nut/screw
> on the back of the wheel, and, as Mr. Hardy says to Mr. Laurel "... no one
> will be the wiser."
>
>
> Regards,
> Harry Wade
> Nashville Tennessee
>
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