[amayausers] Re: Sewing on Leather
- From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 22:59:28 -0600
Andie,
About a week behind on this one... We really don't sew on leather,
not
cold enough down in the south, but I can share with you a little of what
I've heard...
Make sure the design has been digitized for leather. Densities have to
be
raised and sometimes stitch lengths should be increased. Stitch points
around the perimeter of the design should be staggered to prevent the
embroidery from being separated from the jacket at the perforations. Small
detail should be minimized. A stronger needle, like 80/12, should be used
and it should be a chisel sharp point. Slow down the machine to about 700 -
800 spm.
If your bobbin is not catching the top thread, it could be caused from
many
possibilities. Make sure your needle orientation is correct. If the eye is
already straight forward, try rotating it to the right slightly to
compensate for twists in the thread. Sometimes when the material we sew on
is too thick, it causes the needle to deflect as it penetrates the fabric.
When that happens, the tiny loop of top thread that is formed just behind
the scarf of the needle is not where it's supposed to be when the rotary
hook comes around to catch it. If the hook misses the thread, then it's a
missed stitch. If the hook strikes the edge of the thread instead of
passing through the loop of the thread, then it can cause fraying. Smaller
needles can deflect easier than larger because they might not be as stiff.
Too many stitches in one area can cause deflection as well. So can a bad
hoop job or as it's called, "flagging". Actually, flagging doesn't cause
the deflection as much as the fact that with flagging, the stitches are not
being placed where they were intended - hence possibly too many stitches in
one area.
Please don't take this the wrong way but, If all this talk about thread
loops, scarfs, flagging and needle deflection aren't quite clear to you,
then I would suggest you try to get more information on the subject of "how
an embroidery machine stitch is made" before venturing too much into what we
call "specialized embroidery" (items like leather jackets, golf bags,
chenille, plastic hand bags, and even certain types of hats). For me it was
quite an eye opener when we spent several hours learning stitch concept and
terminology in the first tech training class I attended several years ago.
Feel free to call me direct and I'll share as much info with you as I
can.
Ed Orantes
504-258-6260
Ed & Maralien Orantes
E.M. Broidery
900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200
Terrytown, La. 70131
504-EMBROID (504-362-7643)
or
504-433-0099 office
504-433-0100 fax
-----Original Message-----
From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of andie
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 11:22 AM
To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [amayausers] Sewing on Leather
Help, I have 5 LEATHER jackets that I am sewing on and I'm having all kinds
of problems. Can anyone help? I have the material thickness at 8 and the
presser foot set right, and the needle is not catching the bobbin too well
therefore the thread is fraying. I am using a 70/10 sharp point titanium
needle.
Thanks,
Andie
Baum's Sporting Goods
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