[tcb] Re: Split Gas Tanks
- From: Dan Martin <danandkatrinamartin@xxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 13:48:13 -0500
try this link
http://web2.airmail.net/perring/casper/tanksuck.jpg
may it is blocked because there is a picture of a pool in the
background.........
On Aug 3, 2004, at 1:44 PM, Eric Woodall wrote:
> Dang, that site is blocked at work too...
> I will try the nuts and water thing Dennis, and if that doesn't work,
> I'll Por-15 treatment the tank...
> Thanks again guys!
>
>
> Bob Perring <perring@xxxxxxx> wrote:I did the POR-15 thing to Casper
> several years ago, and it was quite easy.
> Iwas very pleased with the results.
> Here is a picture of my hookup using our shop vac to "draw" clean air
> throughthe tank to speed up the drying process.
> http://web2.airmail.net/perring/casper/tanksuck.jpg[1]
> Bob
>
>
> At 13:03 8/3/2004, you wrote:
> He must have had a weakened baffle or he put some super heavy stuff in
> it or
> he shook it beyond the powers of mortal men. I think there are baffles
> (something I'll bet the new ones don't have) to keep the gas from
> slamming
> from side to side as you drive, but they are stronger than that.
>
> When you pull the tank and remove the sender, put a little water in it
> and
> slosh it around and dump it out. If you see black flaky stuff, that is
> varnish created when the gas that was in it evaorated or congealed. If
> rust
> comes out, I would do the screws and nuts shaking until the water
> comes out
> as clean as possible, and put it back in and buy about 100 of those
> plastic
> see-through fuel filters and change them often until they are staying
> clear
> longer. I had to change the little screen at the fuel outlet a couple
> of
> times. I can't remember clearly, but I think you can change that little
> screen from under the car, you don't have to pull the tank, but I'm
> barely
> sure of my name most of the time, so I could be wrong. Auto Zone and
> guys
> like them have bigger industrial looking plastic filters you can put in
> until the gas runs clearer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 12:46 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Split Gas Tanks
>
>
>> Matt (local bus guy) said that he tried the coarse stuff test with his
> tank and broke a baffle on the inside of the tank...
>> So, are they hollow on the inside or is there stuff that could break?
>> Denis wrote:
>> Everything that Gerald says is true (Well, at least about the gas
>> tank) I
>> have never used POR although I have heard that the gas will affect it,
> maybe
>> not. The bay gas tank is a good idea if you have to replace yours. I
>> think
>> it was covered in VW Trends not too long ago.
>>
>> Why do you need a new one? I had to work on mine because it had so
>> much
> crud
>> in it that it clogged my lines and filters. If your tank isn't leaking
>> there are lots of alternatives. I stuck a powerwasher in the hole
>> where
> the
>> sender goes and made a big mess and then I threw in about five
>> hanfuls of
>> the coarsest stuff you can find in the yard and garage, nails, screws,
>> chain, sharp rocks, anything, put a little water in and and shake it
>> all
>> until your exhausted, empty it and do it again until no more crud
>> comes
> out.
>> Put in a new screen in the fuel outlet and you're done. You could also
> take
>> it to a radiator shop and they will take care of it and it might not
>> cost
>> too much. I would not buy a new one if I could avoid it.
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Gerald V. Livingston II"
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 10:03 AM
>> Subject: [tcb] Re: Split Gas Tanks
>> hing Geralsd says is true (well, at least about the gas tank)
>>
>> If you have a good stock tank that just needs cleaning/sealing (no
>> major
>> rust through) then go with the POR-15 kit. Unless the price has gone
>> up by
>> $25 over the last 2 years it's only about $50 and that stuff is
>> AMAZING!
>>
>> If you're in the Houston area there was a dealer out on 1488 headed
>> toward
>> Magnolia from I-45 so you can avoid shipping charges. Can't recall the
> name
>> of the place but you should be able to get the info from the POR-15
>> website.
>>
>> The reason I say go with the reseal of the stock tank is that the new
> tanks
>> are $89 for a reason. Get a new tank and a stock tank and weigh them.
>> The
>> new tank weighs about 1/3 less. They're really thin cheap quality
>> repops.
>> In Texas humidity expect rust through in about 5 years unless you top
>> off
>> daily to make sure there are no air gaps for condensation to form.
>>
>> And, unless you're a Vintage Nazi, while you have the tank out you
>> should
>> look for someone who has a good used BAY tank for sale and go ahead
>> and do
>> the upgrade. I've heard getting the filler to fit can be a bit hairy
>> and
>> may require that it be cut off and moved over but the extra 5 gallons
>> can
>> be nice on long campout drives.
>>
>> Gerald
>>
>> On Tue, 3 Aug 2004 07:28:05 -0700 (PDT) Eric Woodall
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I need to re-finish my gas tank, and really thought that doing the
>>> POR-15 gas tank restoration was going to be the way to go until I saw
>>> the price, about $75.
>>> So I decided to look at how much a new gas tank was, expecting it to
>>> be
>>> around $150...
>>> To my amazement I can get a new one for $89!
>>> So the choice seems clear...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Eric "Mr. Electric Wizard" Woodall
>>> 1966 Micro Bus De Luxe, 7 seater
>>> T.C.B.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------
>> Eric "Mr. Electric Wizard" Woodall
>> 1966 Micro Bus De Luxe, 7 seater
>> T.C.B.
>>
>> ---------------------------------
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>>
>>
>
> --- Links ---
> 1 http://web2.airmail.net/perring/casper/tanksuck.jpg
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------
> Eric "Mr. Electric Wizard" Woodall
> 1966 Micro Bus De Luxe, 7 seater
> T.C.B.
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
>
>
Dan & Katrina Martin
1971 VW Bus
H.B.B.
T.C.B.
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