Dowel: 1/8" x 4', Pine
Pyrodex Grain: .45 cal
Masking tape - 2"x1/2"
J-Tek - 6 Foot
J-Tek in center hole
Wrap tape around pyrodex to hold on end of dowel.
Wrap ematch around dowel.
Tape in place with dowel up against your forward grain.
This is good for 98/75
I used 1/2 of one for 54mm.
You need much smaller (like 1/4 size) for smaller motors.
On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 9:47 PM, Dave M <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I've used it plenty of times. It should be a sure thing for ignition. But
not always as described.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 5, 2017, at 9:29 PM, James Dougherty <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Ask Kurt to show you at a launch; don't play with it yourself.
This stuff is dangerous.
On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 9:06 PM, Dave M <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Ok but don't understand how to apply/use the pellets?
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 5, 2017, at 9:02 PM, James Dougherty <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Not needed. Blast coord can be too much and over-pressurize your motor
and regulation.
Go to your local gun shop and ask for Pyrodex .44/.45 cal 30 grain
pellets. The whole is just
the right size as an ematch. Careful attention when breaking into bits.
Good with small bits of
tape on an ematch. Experiment and tune as needed.
On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 8:58 PM, Dave M <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Ok...I also sometimes wrap some blast cord around the igniter. To make
SURE it lights. Still have failures. Over thinking here?
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 5, 2017, at 8:53 PM, James Dougherty <jafrado@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Yes, what Kurt said - good point - soot.
Or igniter - I have seen motors which did not light because the e-match
fell out and was whipping around like
a rat tail in the aft end ...
On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 4:54 PM, Kurtgug@xxxxxxxxx <kurtgug@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Once you burn the first igniter without lighting the motor, it is
always harder to light it with the second, and even harder with the third.
The core gets coated with soot which acts as an insulator. If you had the
pyrodex pellet in there, it is hard to imagine that not lighting. Maybe it
did light but fail to light the fuel. That would really coat the inside
with soot.
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 5, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Dave M (Redacted sender "muldavea" for
DMARC) <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
No I was very careful next not to disturb anything. And the epoxy dries
so quickly that I didn't think it would have any chance to soak thru
anywhere.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 5, 2017, at 4:36 PM, Gregory Lyzenga <lyzenga@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Sep 5, 2017, at 4:22 PM, Dave M (Redacted sender "muldavea" for
DMARC) <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
A while back, I had two Cesaroni motors that were not plugged but I
didnt want the motor to blow the BP charge. So I removed the BP and filled
up with epoxy. Problem was, in each case, it took maybe three attempts to
launch. Kept burning out igniters. Any thoughts?
In the process of removing the ejection charge, did you disturb or
damage the igniter pellet at the top of the grain? Since Cesaroni igniters
are basically just e-matches without a bunch of pyrogen, there is a pyrodex
pellet at the top of the motor to get the ignition going. If the epoxy ran
onto that, it might explain your problem. But on second thought that seems
unlikely, since there would be a delay grain between it and the ejection
charge well. Hmmm… I’m not sure...
- Greg
----------------------------------------------------------
Gregory A. Lyzenga <lyzenga@xxxxxxx>
Dept. of Physics, Harvey Mudd College (909) 621-8378
Claremont, CA 91711-5990 mobile (626) 808-5314
