Citric acid works fine where the fixer does not have alum
hardener. It has the virtue of not having a vinegar odor. Can
also be used in non-hardening fixing baths. Actually, fixers do
not need to be acid, the fixing action is independent of pH but
they are made acid partly because the alum hardener needs it and
also to make sure any developer carried over is inactivated. A
stop bath will usually take care of the developer but the usual
few second stop bath does not wash out the developer which can
become active again if put into an alkaline bath.
On 3/18/2021 1:18 PM, MARK SAMPSON (Redacted sender msampson45
for DMARC) wrote:
I’ve recently started using a citric acid stop bath for prints; a diluted
version of the standard recipe, as I’m now using TF-5 fixer. Seems to work
well- and !no more stinky darkroom! Just a spoonful in a gallon of water, not
precisely measured at all (can I admit that in public?)
I’ve used running water as stop bath when developing film, for a long time.
Mark S
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 18, 2021, at 1:06 PM, Tim Daneliuk <dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:==========================================================================================================To
On 3/18/21 2:57 PM, Tim Daneliuk (Redacted sender tundra for DMARC) wrote:
On 3/18/21 2:48 PM, Janet Gable Cull wrote:28% acetic acid - 6oz/gal water to make working solution
Is there a recipe for home brew stop bath with easily acquired ingredients?
Thank you.
Jane
You can make make 28% acetic acid from pure "glacial" acetic acid, just
be very careful to wear eye and hand protection and work in a well ventilated
area. Don't breathe the fumes.
I should mention that I do not use stop bath for film. I use running
water entering the bottom of a tank in the dark.
You can buy stop bath products like Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, but I never
bother. First of all, its expensive for what it does. If you mix your
own with acetic acid, it's one-shot and then dispose after the printing
session.
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