[pure-silver] Re: question about blue toners
- From: <C.Breukel@xxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:00:57 +0100
Eric,
I believe I used a toner like that (it was from Tim's excellent book on
toners). The nice thing is that it is a 2 steps toner; first you bleach,
and wash, and than you tone. The advantage is that you do not have to
bleach completely, you can do a partial bleach. After toning you have a
hint of blue in the highlights and the mid tones, which can be quite
attractive..
Best,
Cor
________________________________
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Eric Nelson
Sent: woensdag 11 november 2009 19:43
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: question about blue toners
I just toned some prints w/241 and just to mention the images had a lot
of black, (stage shots of ballet). The toner will bleed into the
borders somewhat even with acidified wash water. Also the toner will
darken the images too. I used FAC green to make the toner. There is
also a 2 part formula by Blumann where I assume you mix the 2 before
use. Given their similarity, I would guess results would be similar as
well.
BLUMANN IRON-BLUE TONER
SOLUTION A
WATER 206 mls
POTASSIUM FERRICYANIDE 2 gms
GLACIAL ACETIC ACID 30 mls
SOLUTION B
WATER 309 mls
FERRIC AMMONIUM CITRATE (GREEN) 3 gms
GLACIAL ACETIC ACID 45 mls
Prints need to be somewhat lighter and flatter than you might want.
Wash in acidified water and harden in 14 gms of Potassium Alum in 30 oz
of water for 5 minutes. then wash again. Blumann calls for 3 changes of
still water.
________________________________
From: Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, November 10, 2009 11:48:00 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: question about blue toners
----- Original Message ----- From: "Antonio Banfi"
<antoniomarioenrico.banfi@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 4:01 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] question about blue toners
By the way,
someone ever played with Foma blue toner? I guess it's a monobath
iron+chloridric acid toner; what I was wondering is if you can increase
the
suggested dilutions (1+4 max.). Just more time to get the toning effect
(something I'd like), or something else happens (like stains, inactivity
etc.)?
Thanks J
Antonio
I couldn't find an MSDS for Foma Blue Toner but most of these toners
are based on the substitution of silver by iron in the toning process.
The iamges are not stable, Alkaline water will fade them and they may
fade on exposure to light although dark storage is supposed to
regenerate them. The color is similar to a blue print. I have no idea of
what dilution does other than it probably slows the toning. Here are a
couple of formulae:
Ansco/Agfa 241 Iron Blue Toner
Water (preferably distilled) 500.0 ml
Ferroc ammonium citrate 8.0 grams
Potassium ferricyanide 8.0 grams
Acetic acid, 28% 265.0 ml
Cold water to make 1.0 liter
Any exposure to iron during toning will result in spots or streaks.
Prints to be toned should be fixed in a plain, non-hardening fixing
bath.
When prints have been toned they will be greenish but will wash out to a
clear blue.
It is suggested that the wash water be slightly acidified with a small
amount of acetic acid.
Delibrate moderation of the blue tone can be gotten by treating washed
prints in a 5% solution of Borax.
Note: this formula does not specify the type of ferric ammonium citrate
scales to be used.
Kodak Iron Toner T-12
Ferric ammonium citrate (green scales) 4.0 grams
Oxalic acid 4.0 grams
Potassium ferricyanide 4.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter
Dissolve each chemical separately in a small amount of water, about 250
ml and filter before mixing together. This soluton does not keep well
except in brown bottles
Immerse the well washed print in the toning bath for 10 to 15 minutes
until the desired tone is obtained. Then wash until the highlights are
clear.
Toned images obtained with this formula are not abasolutely permanent
since they consist of a mixture of silver with silver ferrosyanide and
ferric ferrocanide. On exposre to the atmosphere, which usually contains
traces of hydrogen sulfide, the silver ferrocyanide is converted to
silver sulfide which is usually apparent as a metallic sheen on the
surface of the toned print. This sulfiding of the image can be
preventeed almost completely by coating the prints with Kodak Print
lacquer.
The final tone depends not only on the time of toning but also on
the density of the original print.
Prints to be toned should be washed thoroughly and treated with hypo
eliminator to insure freedomf from hypo. If hypo is present inferio
tones will result.
Note from RK, HE-1 is a bad idea, use Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent and
wash well before toning.
Note that both of these formulas work best on warm tone paper and that
the type of developer may affect the final tone.
I have two additional formulae from _Photographic Facts and
Formulas_ which I copy for comparison but I am not sure they are
reliable.
No.1
Ferric ammonium ditrate (10% solution) 60.0 ml
Potassium ferricyanide (10% solution) 60.0 ml
Acetic acid (10% solution) 600.0 ml
Pesumably the water in the individual solutions is all that is required.
No.2
Ferric ammonium citrate 0.4 grams
Potassium ferricyanide 0.4 grams
Nitric acid 0.75 ml
Water 480.0 ml
Ther is another set of blue toners using gold. These produce very
permanent images, and, in fact, are related to the standard treatment
for microfilm. However, the gold required makes them somewhat expensive.
The Blue color from gold toners is very dependant on the original image
color much like selenium toning. On neutral and cold tone papers, or on
negatives, there is little effect other than slight intensification. On
very warm tone papers there is a definite blue color. On most papers the
blue is a subdued slate blue. Gold toned images when subsequently
treated in a sulfiding toner will turn brick red.
For much more about toning see Tim Rudman's books on toning. A
Google search will find them.
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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