[pure-silver] Re: Tri-X in XTOL
- From: Bogdan Karasek <bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 21:02:48 -0500
Hi Elias,
Ah, yes, those dark Christmas parties..
Whenever I've had to boost the iso, I'd usually go the extra stop to iso
800 and develop in Microphen. I've always been very happy with
Microphen and boosting Tri-x. We have a lot friends who are actors, so
there are always post-opening parties, and those are dark.. I once
shot at 1600, had my 50mm Nikkor wide open at f/1.4 and 1/30s with a
Leica IIIc. Wasn't great but the roll did have a "look" to it.
Bogdan
Elias Roustom wrote:
I have a roll of 120 to develop which I shot at 400, and roll of 135
which I shot at 1600 (it's dark at Christmas parties).
The data sheet gives the same time for 400 as 800, so I figured there'd
be nothing wrong with shooting box speed to get started.
I'm shooting Tri-X for the speed. I'd rather figure out a way to develop
it for the speed, rather than slow it down. XTOL is supposed to give it
full film speed.
I'll find out.
I plan to use 1:1 dilution, but I had a question about the full strength
use.
If I want to re-use my developer, how do I go about it? The data sheet
states that 1L will develop 5 rolls before the developer needs to be
replenished, or time increased.
For small tank process what does that mean? What if I use 450ml on 1
roll, pour it back into the 1L container, mix it thoroughly, and then
use another 450ml for the next roll, etc. Will that work?
E.
On Dec 26, 2009, at 8:38 PM, Bogdan Karasek wrote:
Hi Elias,
What iso do you shoot the Tri-X at?
95% of the time, I shoot at 200iso, be it the 135 Tri-x 400, 120 Tri-X
400 & 120 Tri-x 320, all in D-76 1+1 @ 8m. 30s.
Sheet gets more complicated because I do a lot of N+1, +2, N-1, -2
shooting and developing.
I'll second the use of distilled water. I use it for all my soups,
stop, Fixer, and what not. At least I can't blame the water if
something goes wrong ;)
Cheers,
Bogdan
Elias Roustom wrote:
So I'll just develop for the times given for 135.
I mixed up my batch of XTOL stock. I followed directions, but at the
end, after emptying into 5 1L bottles I found some granules - maybe a
1/8 or 1/16 teaspoon's worth. Must have been from Part A, as the very
hot water I use to clean my mixing graduates turned a little amber
when it melted them down. I'm guessing I'm fine with my stock... that
amount missing from the mix shouldn't hurt anything (should it?). But
next time I'm using hotter water than recommended to get part A fully
dissolved. I wouldn't hurt the developer by doing that would I?
My thought was to use 1L of very hot water 100ºF or more to dissolve
part A in, and then bring that to 4L, then add part B, then top off
to 5L. XTOL users out there, any suggestions?
I used distilled water by the way - something I'll do from now on for
film developer.
Elias
On Dec 26, 2009, at 5:02 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote:
----- Original Message ----- From: "Elias Roustom"
<elroustom@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 12:26 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Tri-X in XTOL
My developing chart that comes with the XTOL data has a column for
"Format". Plus-X for example gets two different rows, one each for
135 and 120.
Some films come with a row with 135/120 in the format column. So
I'm a bit confused - since I know Kodak likes to be very specific
- when I see Tri-X 400 only has 135 in the Format column. Should I
assume the same times for 135 and 120?
Thanks,
Elias
Times for 35mm and roll films of the same type may be somewhat
different. I am not sure what causes this. It may be an assumption
Kodak is making about the amount of solution in the tank or it may
have something to do with the overcoating of the films, which can
affect the "induction time" of development. In some older films you
can see differences in the characteristic curves for the same brand
of film in different sizes.
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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