At 09:48 PM 31/01/2005, you wrote: >Hi Barrie, > >I too obtained several folders of ancient Kodagraph paper size 11 3/4 * = >16 1/2, type C13, can even be processed under subdued tungsten light! = >As you can imagine it was extremly slow but I managed to enlarge on it., = >but I obtained no grey-tones only pure black 9or white), I even tried = >Lith printing, and now e are talking reakly slow here, exposures in the = >15-25 minutes, even with a 250 watt opal tungsten lamp in my Laborator = >L1200 (almost frying it..), but I stil did not obtain mid tones, the = >lith effect showed through deep bLack shadows (with quite some = >infectious development, and a pinkish coloured "highlights") > >good luck, Cor Greetings Cor; Using my 4 x 5 LPL ,250 watt enlarger 50 seconds at f 5.6 I managed to get an acceptable Landscape Image using Dektol stock at 75 Deg F. Paper base is a little pinkish and my blacks are mid brown only. Thank you for your comments, I will find some ' suitable negs' to print, Cheers Barrie > > -----Original Message----- > > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Barrie Bunning > > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 8:08 PM > > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Old Kodak Projection paper :=20 > >=20 > >=20 > > Greetings all; > > I have a few questions for the group :- > > I have recently come buy 2 unopened packets of '=20 > > Kodak Kodagraph PRQ5 projection paper, it says on the label=20 > > one of a=20 > > range of Kodak Document materials. It is Rough single weight,=20 > > use Wratten=20 > > series OB safelight, made in England. > > Q1. What color is Wratten OB ? > > Q2. What developer to use. > > Q3. What was the 'Original purpose' of this paper. > > I have opened up one packet, in the dark, and my standard=20 > > safelight seems=20 > > OK, the paper has a really rough texture, is reasonably slow=20 > > to enlarge=20 > > with but seems to be similar to Grade 2. My test images=20 > > are lovely, but=20 > > the paper is really thin and the base color is a little=20 > > pinkish, but nice.=20 > > I have yet to try toning. Any Info would be greatly=20 > > appreciated as I have=20 > > 98 sheets of 20" x 16" paper that seems to be in excellent=20 > > condition for=20 > > its age ? . > > Cheers Barrie B. > >=20 > > At 04:01 PM 27/01/2005, you wrote: > >=20 > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: <anclancy@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > >To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > >Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 8:39 PM > > >Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Selenium toning question, was > > >stopbath kills fixer > > > > > > > > > > there is no need to just tone 4 11x14 and toss. it is not > > > > good for the environment, and the selenium is still good. > > > > as it begins to slow down, just add some selenium to the > > > > mixture and continue to use. > > > > > > > > I haven't read the directions in a long time, so i can't > > > > comment of the number of prints per ounce, but as many > > > > others, i continue to use the toner, adding as needed. The > > > > last time i topped off a 1:10 ratio was last year some > > > > time, and i tone frequently. Don't remember the last time > > > > the other ratios have had to had additional selenium > > > > added. > > > > > > > > The directions also, indicate that one can mix the > > > > selenium with HCA, which is no longer considered a wise > > > > and necessary directions. > > > > > > > > > > > > regards, > > > > ann > > > > > > The capacity of KRST depends on the material being toned > > >and on the nature of the images. Low key images take up more > > >selenium from the toner so the capacity is less than for > > >high key. The capicity is pretty much judged by the length > > >of time it takes the toner to work. If it gets too slow add > > >more concentrate as you recommend. > > > The use of Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent as a diluent was > > >suggested by Kodak only when the toner was highly diluted, > > >say 1:20, as was previously recommended for image > > >protection. The reason is that the bath then acted as a > > >combination of toner and wash aid. KRST at 1:20 seems no > > >longer to be a good protectant although the slight > > >intensifying action may be desirable for its own sake. At > > >this dilution the capacity of both toner and wash aid is > > >similar. For stronger dilutions its recommended that the > > >tone be diluted in plain water and the wash aid used > > >separately first. The reason is to avoid the possibility of > > >staining due to precipitation of elemental Selenium on the > > >print due to its being acid. I doubt if this is a serious > > >problem for prints or film that has been washed. Since KRST > > >contains a fairly large amount of Ammonium thiosulfate > > >prints can be toned directly from the toner, the hypo does > > >not affect the toner. Its possible that the acid might > > >result in staining from the above reason but I am uncertain > > >if this happens. > > > Note that Kodak at one time recommended KRST diluted 1:9 > > >as a test for residual silver halide in place of the older > > >Sodium sulfide test. This test works on well washed material > > >but fails if there is an excess of hypo. I have never seen > > >an explanation of the chemistry behind this. As a test for > > >completeness of fixing KRST has the advantage over Sulfide > > >of being odor free and being more stable in storage. > > > > > >--- > > >Richard Knoppow > > >Los Angeles, CA, USA > > >dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > > = > >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > = >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > >To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and=20 > > logon to your=20 > > >account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you=20 > > >subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > > -------------------------------------------------------------- > > ----------------------------------------- > > barrieb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx{ Melbourne , Australia } =20 > >=20 > > = >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > = >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and=20 > > logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password=20 > > you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > >=20 >============================================================================================================= >To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your >account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you >subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- barrieb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx{ Melbourne , Australia } ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.