You may be right. I never paid attention to the powder manufacturing
process. It was never a problem in my time, unlike today. I would see the
quality and financial data and I worked through the manufacturing
department a few times. It didn't require attention. "If it isn't broken
don't fix it!"
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021, 10:07:56 AM EDT, BOB KISS
<bobkiss@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
DEAR ROBERT,
I guess I was wrong about the "mono-crystals"? Hmmm...I could have
sworn that some Kodak chems were offered as mono-crystals...
CHEERS!
BOB
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robert Shanebrook ;
(Redacted sender "makingkodakfilm" for DMARC)
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2021 9:22 AM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Kodak D76 Developer
I have hesitated to comment on this but I can't resist.
The reason mixing partial packs is not recommended is that the components
stratify because of particle size and density.
When Eastman Kodak Co. manufactured it we didn't individually add each
component to individual packages. Rather we made a big hopper of the
powder, kept it well stirred and dispensed it into the individual packages.
Proper distribution of components was confirmed by chemical analysis and
statistical analysis.
We discouraged package splitting because we learned users couldn't be
depended on to thoroughly mix the dry material.
If you are still concerned with making small batches of developer use T-Max
Developer. It provides the same curve shape and image quality, is liquid (stir
before dispensing), and has excellent long term shelf keeping
characteristics.
RS
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021, 08:45:54 AM EDT, Ben R. McRee <ben.mcree@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
FWIW you can buy Ilford's equivalent ID-11 in smaller quantities. You probably
won't save any money, but you also won't be mixing up chems you'll have to
store long term.
--Ben
On Mon, Mar 22, 2021 at 11:14 PM hksvk <hksvk@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
As solutions are removed from glass containers with tight-fitting screw-on
caps, adding glass marbles to reduce the headspace works very well. I add
marbles to keep the level of solution well into the neck of the containers or
very close to the top of cylindrical containers. This way I can still pour out
solution without it slopping all over the place. When the remaining volume of
solution reaches the capacity of the next smaller glass container, it gets
decanted to that smaller one. Hope this helps.
Harry.
On Mar 22, 2021, at 10:00 PM, `Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
It has been suggested that the developer be used one-shot. IMO a good
idea. D-76 works fine when diluted 1:1 and used that way. The developing
charts have times for most films with diluted developer. In fact, it has an
advantage that its easier to control the uniformity of development with the
longer times.
On 3/22/2021 6:01 PM, Brian Smith (Redacted sender smithcbrian2 for DMARC)
wrote:
The reason why it is a bad idea not to make up the full amount is that, as
the contents of the packet are mostly sulphite (maybe 100g per litre) and
the quantity of developing agents is very small (just a few grams per
litre), there's no way of ensuring that any part-packet amount will contain
the correct proportions of the developing agents.
I make up print develop a US gallon at a time and store it in small brown
bottles filled to overflowing. I've never had it go off.
Brian
On Tuesday, 23 March 2021, 01:41:34 pm NZDT, Tim Daneliuk
<dmarc-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On 3/22/21 4:33 PM, Louis Smit (Redacted sender lsmit for DMARC) wrote:
Hello Everybody,
I have a question about D76. Can I divide the content into smaller amounts
so that I can mix smaller volumes at a time? I do not use a full batch
until after the 12 month shelf life is over and wonder if it is possible
to mix smaller batches. Some opinions out there seem to indicate that it
is not advisable as the powder my not be uniformly mixed. Is that a
concern?
Thank you,
Louis Smit
Coquitlam BC, Canada.
As others have mentioned, this is a bad idea. However, making the full
gallon and then pouring off into brown glass bottles with polycone caps
is a perfectly reasonable thing to do. Never store developer in plastic.
Most plastics are permeable to air and will not prevent oxidation.
That said, if you're really using such low volumes (or even if you are not),
consider moving to a one-shot developer that you mix, use and throw away.
HC-110 Dilution B will give you similar results to D-76. The stock solution
you buy from Kodak lasts forever. Even the working solution can actually be
stored for a few weeks (again, in a brown glass bottle).
As I recall, 1/2 gal of HC-110B is good for something like 6 8x10 equivalents
(1 roll 35 or 120, 4 - 4x5s, or 2 - 5x7s) and will easily keep in a
bottle for a month or so. Quite inexpensive.
Another good choices for one-shot might be Rodinal.
An even cheaper alternative is Pyrocat-HD which you can mix yourself or
buy from Photographer's Formulary, though you need to be more careful
with handling, skin protection, eye protection, etc. with Pyrocat.
Finally, if you really want to stick with D-76, you can mix your own in
smaller quantities.
https://lostlightphotography.com/kodak-d76-formula/ ;
<https://lostlightphotography.com/kodak-d76-formula/>
Chemicals are easily obtained from Artcraft but this does incur heating
the distilled water, weighing and mixing everything yourself.
Again, anytime you mix your own chemistry you need:
- Skin protection
- Eye protection
- A good face mask
- Ventilation
- Some kind of labcoat to protect your clothing
--
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Tim Daneliuk tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
PGP Key: http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/ ;<http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/>
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